I've read here and there about how tough the dragonborn DLC is. Is it just the MQ that's really tough, or is everything on that island tough? I'm playing DiD, mid 30's lvl character. Non-dragonborn, so I don't plan on doing the MQ with this character, but I want to check the island out and I would rather not get slaughtered as soon as I get out of the boat.

Solstheim is an extremely dangerous place for low level characters.

I did it at level 20. It was hard. I did not fight everything, for a lot of it I dropped my weapons, equiped heal in both hands, and ran. The only real fight I did myself was the one against Miraak. That was the fight of a lifetime, took at least 5 minutes. It's doable but it's very very hard. Each boss fight is going to be very long and difficult and expect to reload a lot of saves. I'm trained in the art of hit and run so I managed but...

BTW the main questline is completely centered around you as a dragonborn and what that means, so if you're RPing not being a dragonborn...

I would say that once a character is level 25 or higher, you'll be on par with those on Solstheim.

I started it when I was level 60. At one point I faced two Lurker Vindicators.

I did it at 35 and that was tough. You should definately level up before doing it.

Why not?
Fun!

But seriously; level 30 is (or can be) pretty powerful.
A few challenging fights, though somewhat of a shock, will make you a better warrior.
Maybe re-think some of the stuff you take for granted...

Sent a level 11-12 warrior/archer in Solstheim. Lydia & Frea proved invaluable, for as long as I could have both following me. Continued with just Lydia afterwards.

IIRC, I killed Miraak with that character, at level 20-22.

LVL 25 minimum.

The entire island is rife with damage sponges who can one or two hit an early leveled player. I usually visit it early on (LVL 2-3) and run, sneak like crazy in order to obtain my Skaal Coat, gloves and boots. Then i make a B-line for the boat back to Windhelm.

I went there at level 5 or 6 with my dunmer character, and she's been there ever since. It's really not that bad...

^ depends on what you do. ash spawn alone are really tough. anyone less than 25 is gonna have problems with them if he isnt power gaming.

How do you play the game? I'd like to know how you didn't get the ubiquitous impression.

I have only quested on that island with an 81 character, so it was pretty easy.

I recently started a new character who went to solsthiem at level 10, and I only did the questline to get Severin manor, but it wasnt too tough... I mostly used conjured minions, healing spells, and a 1handed sword.

What level difficulty are you playing? What's your build?

Playing on default difficulty, but equipped with low-grade weapons/armor. Hunter type build - fur armors, carries hunting bow/steel war axe - currently lvl 35.