So, despite having played the game quite a bit, after recently installing it via Steam I installed the bare essential mods in the "For New Players" thread—code patch, patch project, Better Bodies and LizTail's beast body one. I tend to go for things not too game changing and generally just upgrading the original game rather than adding stuff. (I do have MGE XE installed, but haven't tried it yet, so I'll see if I like it and tinker around with it.)

But what to choose for a head replacer (if at all) has me in a dilemma. Better Heads is clearly the most popular, but... I'm not so sure about it. I just started a new game and I'm not even really happy with how Jiub looks. Different hair, missing his scar, etc. It totally changes the look/personality. And it seems like a lot of the packs make characters who were sort of ugly before rather attractive, which is weird and undesirable.

The second best bet looks like it might be Westley's replacers, but apparently they're plugin-less and replace files so I hesitate to install them since, unlike Better Heads, I don't think I can just click it on and off. Am I missing any good options? Morrowind mods seem to be in quite a bit of a mess these days since half the sites hosting them are gone (Gamespy etc) and it seems that some aren't on Nexus, such as Westley's pack.

While we're at it, opinions on the other big replacement mods? Are Better Clothes/More Better Clothes/Better Robes/Better Armour/Better Swords all pretty faithful and worth installing.