Or do you go to Helgen and take the southern route?
Or travel to Riften and head west?
Just wondering. It's my third disliked part of the MQ and I always go to Helgen and head east, taking that southern path opposite the normal path.
I found a horse that is immune to damage. So I abuse the glitchy behavior of horses and go straight over the mountains.
I prayed really hard to Akatosh until he gripped me and flew me straight to the Greybeards' door.
I used to go Valtheim, but then i started going past Helgen, past Orphan rock, and past Heimars cave (the one for barbas). I dont immediately head to Ivarstead anymore, usually i head to Falkreath at level 9-10 first and buy Lakeview so i can start putting stuff into storage. Usually by the time i've gotten Lakeview i've cleared out Heimars cave so i can just fast travel there and quickly make it to Ivarstead.
Like everything else, it depends on my characters. Some of them go by way of Valtheim, some of them go by way of Helgen. As a roleplayer everything I do in my game depends entirely on who my characters are.
Through the unguarded passage a bit south of the river-crossing tower. It's a wonderful joint, I'm totally sick of wolves and bears, it's good that there's this one place where I can be without fear of being assaulted every five seconds.
From Whiterun I either go towards Valtheim Towers, but go up the mountain and take the path that starts close to the Whiterun Stormcloak Camp (I used to take the path the starts close to Fort Amol before I discovered this one), or I go by Riverwood, take the mountain path the emerges close to Helgen and then go through the mountain pass and approach Ivarstead from the south.
But it obviously depends on where I start. If I come from the north (Windhelm or Winterhold), I go to Fort Amol and take the path there.
It also depends om my RP. If my character is new to Skyrim he/she won't now all the shortcuts (unless they have a follower I can RP is their guide).
I short cut up the mountainside, just a little after Helgon. Saves a lot of time and distance compared to going all the way to Ivarstead. You end up on the steps just south of High Hrothgar. Head up northeast off the path between Orphan Rock and North Skybound Watch, just before the Watch.
Map: http://www.uesp.net/maps/srmap/srmap.shtml?locx=48768&locy=-58112&zoom=14
Likewise, there is an actual mountain pass before you get to Valtheim Towers that will take you east over the mountain, passing just north of High Hrothgar. In fact you'll be able to see it above you as you pass. This route will get you to Ivarstead much quicker than heading all the way down past Valtheim Towers.
There's a little back road not too far from the Whiterun Stormcloak camp. That's the route I take when I go to Ivarstead. If you have full roads version of http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/mods/4929/?, then you can probably spot it.
That's the one I'm using. Took me quite a while to discover it - the stupid thing is, the very first time I played the game, I tried to climb the mountain pretty much there (I don't think I had the quest markers active, so I went for High Hrotgar, not Ivarstead), and I must have been following that path for a while, but since I tried to get UP, I left the path when it turned downhill again, and then forgot about it.
The first path you mention - I've been looking for a path around there several times without success, but not long ago I think I came down that way. I didn't know you could get up there, too, I thought it was too steep.
If you head northeast just before the watch you'll find a way. There is a tree filled snowfield that get steep, but walkable, and ends with rock. Hop-skip-jump up and to the left until you find yourself on another snowfield, this time bare with no trees. This snowfield is steep too, but like the first is walkable. It's only the very short section of rock you have to fuss with because it's too steep to walk. But it's so short you are through it in seconds after a couple tries.
I'll have to try this next time (about to start Season Unending, with all travelling back and forth to HH). I'm not sure my current character has discovered the watch, though.
It's worth taking the time to learn if you don't fast travel.
I head straight down on my way back, whether it's Whiterun, Solitude, or Windhelm I'm going, and whether Throat of the World or High Hrothgar I'm leaving from.. Find my direction on the compass and straight down the mountain I go. Followers don't stand a chance. lol
This is the basic path:
http://i40.tinypic.com/esnvis.jpg
With Ivarstead to my rear, I piss off a Giant and then begin the countdown to launch...
I usually go via Helgen, clearing out assorted bandit dens on the way to earn some caps gold.
That just can't be. From whom else are we to learn to pimp in Skyrim?
http://skyrim.nexusmods.com/mods/15775/?, directly from Whiterun. Or, if I feel like it, directly to High Hrothgar.
One of the advantages of being an Alteration user
P.D: Don't miss http://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=6yt6lviLAis about that mod. The aerial battle against a dragon is just epic