Is it possible to enjoy the Dragonborn dlc without being proclaimed Dragonborn? I mean is everyone normal, or are they still under Miraak's influence? Also can I still do any of Neloth's quests?

All of the Quests given by Neloth to Our character, except clearing a Dwemer Ruin to get a Black Book can be done without being a Dragonborn. We are locked out of One Dwemer Ruin and the Temple of Miraak, and any Quest that requires the Skaal being freed from Miraak's influence. Being an actual Dragonborn does not exclude a character from most of the Quests in Solsthiem.

Do not go to Solsthiem with a Roleplaying character that requires actual sleep, most of the NPC's and Our character are stuck under the influence of Miraak during the Night.

Ah, I see. Thank you for the information.

Take Care!

Funny story that...I ended up on the complete opposite side of the island when I slept at the Retched Netch. Now considering how dangerous the wilds if Solstheim are, my character must've been an absolute killing machine when he was tranced to traverse the landscape and survive.

I (foolishly) went to sleep in the Netch, like ~200 overweight...

Of course I woke up in Miraak's temple pretty far away.

(no strength potion could get me back, so I walked)