When I play the TES games, I NEVER fast travel, nor do I make use of things like the carriage outside of Whiterun, because I think it spoils the game somewhat. Bethesda have made this big, giant, beautiful world for you to explore in, so why would you skip all of that by fast-travelling everywhere? Anyway, my real point is that for one of my quests, I need to go to Ustengrav, located somewhat north of Morthal. What would be the "proper" way of getting there? By that I mean how can I get there by road/footpath? The road I tried to take took me to a dead end graveyard at the foot of the mountains, the route looked alright on the map that came with the game.

If you are willing to try mods, and in your case not wanting to fast travel at all, are on PC, If it were Me, I'd try these on for size.

http://www.skyrimnexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=145

http://www.skyrimnexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=272

1 or the other. not both. I'd only use them when frustrated. just my opinion.

If your daring head up past Silent Moons Camp through Labrythanian (sp?) to face Frost Trolls. If your bold and can handle a dragon go Northwest by Dustmans Cairn and Drelas Cabin then head down to Morthal. The other option is to go up to Rorikstead and then up north, follow the river to Morthal. Another option is to head east then up north by Volunruud, stay out of that place it's a death trap for low level characters.

Wait...your arguing against fast travel and then you ask how to get somewhere on a forum. lol You skipped all of the exploring my friend. EXPLORE!!!! [whoosh]

I just trecked west from Whiterun and the North over the mountains. Not a real road, but there were scalable paths. Didn't hit anything major on the way.

Did you follow the road west from Whiterun, and then north once you reach the bandit castle? This route takes me to a place called Hamvir's Rest, it's the actual main cobbled road that takes you there but I can't see a way through, I can't even see a goat trail...