Today I reinstalled the game from scratch and while it runs fine, it looks completely different - overbright, with flat shadowless lighting.
http://i.imgur.com/9BK0k83.jpg on how Riverwood looked just yesterday.
http://i.imgur.com/g49SKNb.jpg on how it looks after reinstall.
Does anyone have an idea on what might be up with the graphics. I'm tired as I've spent almost all day uninstalling mods and reinstalling the game and mods, so I'll continue with it tomorrow, but I'd appreciate some tips on what it might be. I've compared the skyrim.ini and the skyrim prefs.ini and they are exactly the same as yesterday. I'm using ENB 201 with the exact same settings as yesterday. It's the same horrible lighting both indoors and outdoors. If I turn the brightness all the way down it looks slightly less bad. Both pics are taken with brightness exactly at default (i.e. in the middle). Completely weird.