I've been playing since release, but I've just started to seriously wander around Solstheim for the first time. Bethesda did a spectacular job with Neloth. I personally don't think there's a more entertaining character in ESV. I'm pretty thankful they put together a solid number of quests that run through him. His voice content is priceless and his personality is perfect.
"You won't feel a thing. But if you do, try not to scream too loudly. My ears are sensitive."