I love Riften... it's seedy, dangerous, and old, and besides Honeyside is my favorite player home. That being said, with every new character I hate the first visit to Riften intensely. Here's the thing.
You're forced to enter at a specific place, and then every quest on the face of the earth is laying in wait to ambush you as you walk in...
Mjoll the cougar and her young boyfriend, then Maul, then Sapphire and Shadr, and you're still barely in the gate. Before you recover from that it's Brynjolf whether you go to the market or the Bee and Barb, the message for Sibbi, more fun with sapphire, the market guild thing, and STILL you really haven't been anyplace at all hardly.
It takes a lifetime seemingly to get from the front gate to a rented bed where you can use a pillow to hide from the barrage of quests that have come your way in the fifteen or twenty minutes you've actually been in town. Perhaps the final insult occurs as you enter the marketplace hearing "Sure, I'm a dirty beggar. Why would you want to talk to me?"
One of these days I'm going to wait to go to Riften, then walk into town with a fairly high mage, and cast fury (or frenzy) on everybody I see...