Do we get directions instead? If not than turning off the markers will make things worse than having them on.
Look...instead of telling you directions, in Oblivion (and looks like now in Skyrim), the NPC marked your map. That's way more realistic than "here, you're going halfway across the world, just um, look for a big rock northeast of the river." Sorry you don't want to use the markers, but jeez, that's like someone playing Morrowind and saying "it's too easy to find quest objectives when they TELL you where it is, this is an open world to explore, I want to find it myself".
As far as quest markers above NPC's head, it was said in another thread it was over your current quest objective- to me, that just means whomever sent me on the quest used magic to mark my map, and there's a residual trace of that around the NPC. /RP