..::THE COMMUNITY TECH THREAD No. 87::..

Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:34 pm

How old is the drive? My disc drives never seem to last more than 3 years, just order a new one for like 15-20 bucks.


Well i have only had it about a year but my uncle owned it before and heavily used it for around 2 or 3 years so your probably right. Ill go down to a hardware stor sometime this week and replace it, thanks.
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sunny lovett
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:19 am

Anyone know of a free file manager for Windows with a layout similar to http://emelfm2.net/attachment/wiki/ScreenShots/screenshot-dsyates.png?
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Sophie Miller
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:16 am

Anyone know of a free file manager for Windows with a layout similar to http://emelfm2.net/attachment/wiki/ScreenShots/screenshot-dsyates.png?

Could look into either Xenon file manager, Total Commander, or Free Commdaner. Haven't used any myself though.
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Isabell Hoffmann
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:40 am

Could look into either Xenon file manager, Total Commander, or Free Commdaner. Haven't used any myself though.

Sweet, thanks. I'll check those out tomorrow.
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Laura-Lee Gerwing
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:43 am

My cousin's looking into getting a new desktop. I asked him and haven't heard back yet, but I doubt he'd be willing to build it himself. He does some gaming, but isn't especially hardcoe about it; I'd bet he wants to play Mass Effect 2, though. In the email he sent me, he mentioned that he was considering these...

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229173
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227229
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227230

...so I'd guess his price range is about $1000 or so, less is better. I recommended a couple that looked like better deals:

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227243
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229159

Anybody know of anything out there that's a better deal than those right now? Or maybe something really kick-ass for $1000 or so?
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Kayla Keizer
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:19 am

My cousin's looking into getting a new desktop. I asked him and haven't heard back yet, but I doubt he'd be willing to build it himself. He does some gaming, but isn't especially hardcoe about it; I'd bet he wants to play Mass Effect 2, though. In the email he sent me, he mentioned that he was considering these...

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229173
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227229
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227230

...so I'd guess his price range is about $1000 or so, less is better. I recommended a couple that looked like better deals:

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227243
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229159

Anybody know of anything out there that's a better deal than those right now? Or maybe something really kick-ass for $1000 or so?


He's shorting himself on the graphics card. The best systems you list have only an nVidia GTS 250. Because of nVidia's brain-damaged model numbering "system", the fact that that is an old card is concealed. For a new rig with a reasonable budget, I wouldn't go less than an ATI 5750 or 5770, or an nVidia GTX 260 Core 216 or GTX 275.

Most current-generation CPUs won't have any trouble with current games. Core i3 and Phenom II x2 CPUs are adequate; Core i5 7xx (not 6xx) and the fastest Phenom II x4's are better. Core i7's are superb, but overkill and budget-breakers.

None of the listed units mention the power supply. This is a deal-breaker to me. I would not want to deal with an expensive rig with a cheap Chinese generic power supply.

If you go direct to iBUYPOWER, instead of shopping the preconfigured units on Newegg, you can get a much better selection.
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Kristian Perez
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:03 am

My cousin's looking into getting a new desktop. I asked him and haven't heard back yet, but I doubt he'd be willing to build it himself. He does some gaming, but isn't especially hardcoe about it; I'd bet he wants to play Mass Effect 2, though. In the email he sent me, he mentioned that he was considering these...

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229173
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227229
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227230

...so I'd guess his price range is about $1000 or so, less is better. I recommended a couple that looked like better deals:

-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227243
-http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229159

Anybody know of anything out there that's a better deal than those right now? Or maybe something really kick-ass for $1000 or so?

These two are pretty decent:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229157
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227179

But going straight to the source like BuyXG or CyberPower's main website and customizing may get better configs. The power supply in these systems are skimped on for cheap no-name brand ones.
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MatthewJontully
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:07 pm

Cool, thanks for the advice. Knew the GTS 250 wasn't top of the line, but didn't realize it was aging toward obsolescence already. Questions:

Since ibuypower, cyberpower, and buyxg all come out to with ~$50 of each other for similar builds, are any of them more or less reliable?

The PSU guide linked in the OP mentions Corsair as a reliable brand, but also mentions specific models...are they reliable across the board, or do they contract out to different manufacturers like some of those companies? If they're not universally dependable, can you recommend good PSUs on the lists from the configuration pages on those three sites, capable of powering a high-end CPU and a single high-end GPU (no SLI plans)?
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^~LIL B0NE5~^
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:47 am

Cool, thanks for the advice. Knew the GTS 250 wasn't top of the line, but didn't realize it was aging toward obsolescence already. Questions:

Since ibuypower, cyberpower, and buyxg all come out to with ~$50 of each other for similar builds, are any of them more or less reliable?

The PSU guide linked in the OP mentions Corsair as a reliable brand, but also mentions specific models...are they reliable across the board, or do they contract out to different manufacturers like some of those companies? If they're not universally dependable, can you recommend good PSUs on the lists from the configuration pages on those three sites, capable of powering a high-end CPU and a single high-end GPU (no SLI plans)?


Corsairs are good across the board; they have three series, HX, TX, and VX. HX is their first line; it's the modular, no-compromises one that gave them a good name in power supplies. TX is their second line; it's not modular and still rugged. VX is their value line; it's comparable or sometimes identical to the better lines of other companies like Antec. Corsairs are actually made by Channel Well or Seasonic, most of them anyway.

Antec sells a lot of power supplies, some are good or very good, and others are cheap. The Earthwatts line is OK to very good; recent Antec Earthwatts made by Delta are better than the earlier Seasonic-made Earthwatts, and at least as good as Corsair's VX line. You can identify the Delta-made Earthwatts because their model numbers end in "D" (380D, 430D, 500D), except for the Earthwatts 650, which is also Delta-made.

Only a few manufacturers sell retail power supplies under their own name. Seasonic is the best known of these, and Seasonic-branded Seasonics are generally identical to models sold by Corsair. (Antec-branded Seasonics, however, are definitely not Seasonic's better power supplies.)
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Jonny
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:14 pm

Thanks again. Proposed build (on ibuypower, components in order from configurator):

-Cheapest case
-i7 860 (@2.80GHz)
-Standard cooling (is the $10 liquid cooling system worth it?)
-4 GB cheap RAM
-GTX 470 (is it worth it for this over the GTX 260, for $160?)
-Cheapest mobo (if I don't care about SLI, is there a reason to go with a different one?)
-Corsair CMPSU-650TX (650W PSU)
-1 TB standard hard drive
-Default options for the rest, no accessories

Total: $1220 (sounds like this much of a price hike wouldn't be a huge deal, his research fund is paying for it :P )

Any glaring problems with that, or thoughts on improvements?
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Kortniie Dumont
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:43 am


-GTX 470 (is it worth it for this over the GTX 260, for $160?)



As far as I've heard, it gets very hot, though Nvidia has said it's supposed to anad can handle it. And it takes quite a lot of electricity.
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Rodney C
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:29 pm

As far as I've heard, it gets very hot, though Nvidia has said it's supposed to anad can handle it. And it takes quite a lot of electricity.

Yes, it can apparently handle it. By apparently sticking a leaf blower inside it somewhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbP9QZOPJPY

Sure, that's a 480, but still. I think the comment "which airforce base did you film this at?" sums it up.
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Jaylene Brower
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:23 am

Cool, thanks for the advice. Knew the GTS 250 wasn't top of the line, but didn't realize it was aging toward obsolescence already. Questions:

Since ibuypower, cyberpower, and buyxg all come out to with ~$50 of each other for similar builds, are any of them more or less reliable?

The PSU guide linked in the OP mentions Corsair as a reliable brand, but also mentions specific models...are they reliable across the board, or do they contract out to different manufacturers like some of those companies? If they're not universally dependable, can you recommend good PSUs on the lists from the configuration pages on those three sites, capable of powering a high-end CPU and a single high-end GPU (no SLI plans)?

Those three companies have had their share of ups and downs. Most customers are pleased with them though. CyberpowerPC has picked up well over the past couple years with their service. BuyXG has been steady for a while now and I find them to be the cheapest of the 3. IBuyPower I find to be the most expensive of the 3.

Corsair PSUs are simply reliable across the board. They are almost a stamp for PSU recommendations on a high-end build.


Thanks again. Proposed build (on ibuypower, components in order from configurator):

-Cheapest case
-i7 860 (@2.80GHz)
-Standard cooling (is the $10 liquid cooling system worth it?)
-4 GB cheap RAM
-GTX 470 (is it worth it for this over the GTX 260, for $160?)
-Cheapest mobo (if I don't care about SLI, is there a reason to go with a different one?)
-Corsair CMPSU-650TX (650W PSU)
-1 TB standard hard drive
-Default options for the rest, no accessories

Total: $1220 (sounds like this much of a price hike wouldn't be a huge deal, his research fund is paying for it :P )

Any glaring problems with that, or thoughts on improvements?

I find the Radeon 5850 to be a better choice than the GTX 470...unless a Nvidia card is a must for this build. The GTX 470 is a power-hog.



Ahh, ok...I'm not looking to do anything heavy on the monitors (like game) but instead just for extra desktop real estate. Looks like it's gonna be a cheap card for me then. Any you'd recommend? I know the specs probably won't matter if all it's doing really is extending the desktop, but if I'm gonna spend money on a 2nd GPU I don't see the point in just buying something bad! Haha.

Also, would Windows recognise both GPU's? Like, when I go to extend the desktop, will it recognise the 3rd monitor?
Something cheap like the Radeon 4350.

I believe there's a utility called Ultramon that even Microsoft suggests to use for multiple monitors...should take a look.
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Ron
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:41 pm

Ok, I have a serious problem with my current PC (not the new system I'm having nightmares building). Every time Windows loads up, the PC resets itself. It spends an unusually long time hanging at the Windows "Welcome" screen, then when it gets in I get the message "To help protect your computer, Windows has closed this program. Name: Generic Host Process for Win32 Services. Publisher: Microsoft Corporation." In the few seconds I manage to get into the task manager before the computer resets, I can see that the CPU usage is at 100%, with the bulk of the load going between avgcsrvx.exe, avgrsx.exe and nvsvc32.exe. These all seem genuine processes, so I'm not sure whether this is normal start-up behaviour or not.

I have some uni stuff I've been working on that I need access to as soon as possible, so I need some way to get Windows working again, even just for long enough to copy some files onto a USB, or some way to access my Windows files from Linux. Then I need some way to fix Windows. I'm currently running Linux Mint 8 off a USB just now,

Anyone any idea what could be causing this?
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Charles Mckinna
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:57 pm

Anyone any idea what could be causing this?


Boot into Safe Mode, check the event viewer while there. See if it lists anything more specific.

You can copy the files from there. Then I'd recommend a fresh install of Windows. (Unless the error is obvious and easily fixed.) Could try a repair to, but I prefer fresh installs over repairs. (Repair can lead to other issues, like messing up Windows Update.)
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Queen
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:43 am

Boot into Safe Mode, check the event viewer while there. See if it lists anything more specific.

You can copy the files from there. Then I'd recommend a fresh install of Windows. (Unless the error is obvious and easily fixed.) Could try a repair to, but I prefer fresh installs over repairs. (Repair can lead to other issues, like messing up Windows Update.)

I think I can get by on Linux for now, just nipping into Windows in safe mode to grab any files I need. Hopefully before too long I can get the new rig up and running, and just wipe this one and give it to the parents. I'm hesitant to wipe it until after uni is over though, in case there's some important file buried in there that I end up needing.
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Kelly Osbourne Kelly
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:33 am

Well i have only had it about a year but my uncle owned it before and heavily used it for around 2 or 3 years so your probably right. Ill go down to a hardware stor sometime this week and replace it, thanks.


So, we took the drive out and cleaned out the whole innards of the PC (which was full of dust) then put in the new drive. However, my PC didn't recognise the new drive and would only play music CD's, while still making the same clicking noise of the old drive. Then we put the old drive back in and it seems to work without the burning and clicking? (Although knowing my luck it will probably stop working again in a bit). Still, its very odd. Maybe the dust was causing the problems on the old drive. :shrug:
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Taylah Illies
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:43 am

Sorry to double post but it was my birthday yesterday and ive got £50 to spend so i thought i would invest in some RAM for my computer as ATM i only have 1028 MB and i would like more as i have been experiencing frame-rate hits on a some of my games like SupCom. I was looking at http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/corsair-cgmt2x2g800-pc2-6400-ddr2-800-dimm-ram-memory-module-kit-2gb-2x-1gb-03753545-pdt.html, good choice? Does it matter what make the old RAM is? Also, will i have to install the new memory through my desktop or will it just add itself? Cheers!
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Lily
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:25 am

Sorry to double post but it was my birthday yesterday and ive got £50 to spend so i thought i would invest in some RAM for my computer as ATM i only have 1028 MB and i would like more as i have been experiencing frame-rate hits on a some of my games like SupCom. I was looking at http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/corsair-cgmt2x2g800-pc2-6400-ddr2-800-dimm-ram-memory-module-kit-2gb-2x-1gb-03753545-pdt.html, good choice? Does it matter what make the old RAM is? Also, will i have to install the new memory through my desktop or will it just add itself? Cheers!

Do you have a DDR2 compatible motherboard, or an older standard? You don't have to install any software or drivers for RAM, just stick it in and you're ready to go.
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Charlotte X
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:32 pm

Got a little problem with my LCD monitor...

Is it normal for deep blacks to be a kind of dark bluish black? On high contrast images (like letterboxes on movies or nighttime scenes in games), the darkest areas of the screen seem to really stand out from the rest of the image, and it really annoys me. I've managed to force a fix using the program http://entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm, but that requires me to set my brightness up to like 20-30% which makes the image seem washed out. I also need to set my contrast lower, or else I can't see any of the example images in http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php.

Is this common with LCD monitors, or do I just have a low quality monitor? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009179
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Kelly Upshall
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:19 am

Is there any point to "Safely Remove Hardware"? If so, what's the difference between just pulling your device out?
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Robert Garcia
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:19 pm

Is there any point to "Safely Remove Hardware"? If so, what's the difference between just pulling your device out?


If its actively reading/writting to the device it may corrupt the data.
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Chantel Hopkin
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:46 am

Is there any point to "Safely Remove Hardware"? If so, what's the difference between just pulling your device out?


I don't with my MP3 player or camera, but I do if I am hot swapping an HDD. I have to go into Disk Manager and deactivate the drive, then use "Safely Remove Hardware". I can just pull it out but this way it finishes what it may be doing before deactivating.
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Wayne W
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:55 am

I have a question. I am doing some research as at some point my sister wants a new tower. How feasible is it to build a computer that runs Oblivion and the Sims 3 for £300 (Sterling) or less. FYI, I think the Sims 3 requirements are below Oblivions.
She doesn't need an OS, Screen, Keyboard or similar and I am probably happy to build it for her.

Another question, vaguely related to the above one. I have a XP Pro licence that came with a dell computer. Will this work with a non dell computer? (I can probably borrow another XP pro disk to install if required).


Is there any point to "Safely Remove Hardware"? If so, what's the difference between just pulling your device out?
It ensures writing has been finalized. In the case of some devices are settings to write to a buffer rather than directly to a drive so it is possible that nothing has been actually written to the drive at the point when you pull it out. (For example this is default for flash devices on some Ubuntu versions, but not on XP).

Some pen drives also tend to stop flashing the writing light before they have actually finished writing the file fully. (From experience)
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carly mcdonough
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:37 am

Somehow when unblocking a NoScipt element in Firefox it got set to not ask anymore. But I want it to ask me each time for this element like it has done in the past. Where should I look for the option to change it? Or do I just need to reset all NoScript preferences?
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Isabell Hoffmann
 
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