..::THE COMMUNITY TECH THREAD No. 87::..

Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:43 am

Quick question. What wattage would be needed to power a rig containing an i7 930/6GB DDR3 RAM/HD 5850/1 HDD, assuming the brand of the PSU is very good?


You'd want to size for a sustained 350W power draw while gaming, which I'd say calls for a 500W to 700W PSU. The combined power at 12V is critical if you are trying to "rightsize" a power supply: the card alone will sink up to 16A at 12V, and the rest of your system will want another 12-14A at 12V. So allowing another 2-4A of headroom, look for a power supply with either a single 12V rail of 32A or better, or a specific rating for the combined 12V rails (don't just add them) of 32A or 384W or better.

Example: A good mid-grade power supply like an Antec Earthwatts 500D is rated 500W maximum continuous; so far, so good. It has two 12V rails at 22A each, but that doesn't add up to 44A: it has a combined rating of 444W at 12V (which works out to 37A). That is sufficient for your proposed rig, but doesn't leave a lot of headroom if you want to upgrade to a Crossfire setup, 5970, or nVidia Fermi later.
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Mackenzie
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:18 am

Thanks, Dogsbody, that's some useful info.
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Ashley Tamen
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:53 am

http://www.semiaccurate.com/2010/04/21/atis-southern-islands-tapes-out/

Interesting read I thought, looks like ATI is planning on kickin Nvidia while they're down.
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stevie critchley
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:20 pm

Is "Profile Activation Notification" ticked in the Profiler under Settings>Profiler

It was I think I found the issue> I had it set to not change. There is an option for persistant profiles which was checked.
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Ownie Zuliana
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:55 am

Standard ATX12V power supplies. There are lots of decent ones in the 400-500W range at Newegg Canada, including Xclio, Antec "Earthwatts" (look for the newer models with the green case and a "D" suffix), and even some Seasonics and a Silverstone and a Corsair. That's all you need unless you're going for a high-end graphics card, which wouldn't be the best idea in that little case anyway.


I bought http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817339019 Gotta be better than my current 200W one and should power my medium end card.
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Danel
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:51 pm

I bought http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817339019 Gotta be better than my current 200W one and should power my medium end card.


So long as you're not running it anywhere near to its supposed capacity, you shouldn't need to worry about it starting a fire. hec makes awful power supplies.
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Del Arte
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:01 am

Need some help here

When I built my dad his new computer, he used some "Windows Easy Transfer" program to transfer all his files from his old PC to his new one. (Even though I specifically told him to let me just do it manually).

And of course, the program screwed up, none of his documents got moved. All the other files got moved, but nothing in the My Documents folder.

So I grabbed the old HDD and put it into the new computer. It recognizes it and boots up without any issues. However, it's not letting me access ANY files in the My Documents folder.

Though the odd thing is, it lets me access all other files. But EVERY file in the My Documents folder, it claims I don't have permission to access.

I've tried everything I can think of =( I've changed the owner and tried giving full acess to the folder.
I even tried running the old HDD through an external enclosier through USB, but didn't work.

Please help. Thanks.

edit: Just looked, and it says I have full permission: When I right click on the folder -> properties -> Security -> Advanced. It says full permission =\ Still can't access the files though.
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Philip Lyon
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:42 am

Well, my mom just called me and they got a netflix subscription, but their PS3 isn't connected to the internet. A long ethernet cord is fairly out of the question, and where the PS3 is, the wireless reception is terrible. So any recommendations for a GOOD wireless booster, and a PS3 compatible wireless receiver?
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Jake Easom
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:42 pm

So long as you're not running it anywhere near to its supposed capacity, you shouldn't need to worry about it starting a fire. hec makes awful power supplies.


FFFUUUUU-

I'm such a cheap ass though.
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BaNK.RoLL
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:19 am

Along with my other question, I'm also trying to figure out a way to have the cheat to add experience in Mount and Blade to repeat automatically so I can test high-level builds. I seriously am tired of pushing it thousands of times to just level up. I can't find any way to automate it though. Any programs that can make this happen?

EDIT: Oh, and the hotkey is Control+X if that matters. I don't know if modifier keys make this harder.
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Cccurly
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:45 am

Well, my mom just called me and they got a netflix subscription, but their PS3 isn't connected to the internet. A long ethernet cord is fairly out of the question, and where the PS3 is, the wireless reception is terrible. So any recommendations for a GOOD wireless booster, and a PS3 compatible wireless receiver?


http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-to-turn-an-old-router-into-a-wireless-bridge/ (If you have one, or can buy a cheap 54G or something.)

Just place it in between the router and the PS3.

P.S.

Can be a bit of a PITA the configure and get it right, but I think it's a good cheap/free option.
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Smokey
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:55 am

I have a Western Digital 1 TB external drive that I have filled up more than halfway with things that I don't want to replace, but today my windows 7 says "cyclic redundancy check" whenever I try to use it, and prompts me to format it. What's going on with this?

EDIT: I checked it in another PC, running windows XP and it also told me that it needed to be formatted. I'm going to lose it if this thing is broken.
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Rhysa Hughes
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:41 pm

How stable are the most recent mobile Nvidia drivers? I'm using the 180 series right now, but some of my games tend to crash and say that the drivers failed. However, I remember awhile back that the 190 series were nothing but trouble for games like Fallout and Oblivion. Is the most recent version safe to use?
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Adam Baumgartner
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:59 pm

How can I get rid of my Dual-boot menu? A couple months ago I was dual-booting Ubuntu, and Win7, but I wiped that harddrive that had Ubuntu on it so I could use it to store my games/media. Whenever I turn on my computer it still gives me the option to start either Linux or Windows 7. How do I get rid of that small annoyance?
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KIng James
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:21 pm

I have a Western Digital 1 TB external drive that I have filled up more than halfway with things that I don't want to replace, but today my windows 7 says "cyclic redundancy check" whenever I try to use it, and prompts me to format it. What's going on with this?

EDIT: I checked it in another PC, running windows XP and it also told me that it needed to be formatted. I'm going to lose it if this thing is broken.

So I've been searching all over for a solution, and it seems that all my data is still just fine on the disk, but Windows somehow forgot it was there? I have Recuva, but I don't have room for all my files from the external drive on my internal HD. Is there a way for windows to recognize all my files again?
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Skrapp Stephens
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:22 am

How can I get rid of my Dual-boot menu? A couple months ago I was dual-booting Ubuntu, and Win7, but I wiped that harddrive that had Ubuntu on it so I could use it to store my games/media. Whenever I turn on my computer it still gives me the option to start either Linux or Windows 7. How do I get rid of that small annoyance?


http://www.ehow.com/how_4836283_repair-mbr-windows.html

Tips:

Enter "bootsect /nt60 C:/" without the quotes!
Familiarize yourself a bit with MS-DOS commands before attempting this.

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AnDres MeZa
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:34 am

So I've been searching all over for a solution, and it seems that all my data is still just fine on the disk, but Windows somehow forgot it was there? I have Recuva, but I don't have room for all my files from the external drive on my internal HD. Is there a way for windows to recognize all my files again?

Have you:

1. Tried a new usb/firewire/esata cable?

2. Ran chkdsk [drive letter]: /f?

3. Tried to rescue the data using a live CD?
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Joe Bonney
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:33 am

Have you:

1. Tried a new usb/firewire/esata cable?

2. Ran chkdsk [drive letter]: /f?

3. Tried to rescue the data using a live CD?

1. Yes, and I checked the current USB cable with an MP3 player and it worked fine.

2. I tried, but I couldn't get it to scan the drive

3. No, what's that?
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Rude_Bitch_420
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:12 am

3. No, what's that?

A Linux live CD like Ubuntu, Puppy Linux, or Knoppix

From there you can try mounting your external drive and see if you can copy the data. You can also try testdisk to try and repair it (Knoppix I know comes with it, Ubuntu I believe you have to install it)
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Flash
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:03 am

A Linux live CD like Ubuntu, Puppy Linux, or Knoppix

From there you can try mounting your external drive and see if you can copy the data. You can also try testdisk to try and repair it (Knoppix I know comes with it, Ubuntu I believe you have to install it)

But to copy the data I'd need to have enough space on another drive to put it there, right?
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Rinceoir
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:01 pm

But to copy the data I'd need to have enough space on another drive to put it there, right?

yes, or you could try compressing it with Clonezilla

ITT: Why you should always have 2 copies of all data, 3 of the really important stuff :hehe:
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Abi Emily
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:21 am

yes, or you could try compressing it with Clonezilla

Ah well, I ordered a 1TB internal HD to put all the files on, and I think I can get them using recuva. I already got all my pictures off of it, but I don't have enough room on my main drive on this PC (only have ~380 gigs free, but I have over 500 gigs of stuff on the external).

Of course I forgot to order an SATA cable along with it...
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BRAD MONTGOMERY
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:36 am

Hi, I'm going to be graduating HS and heading off to college in a few months. I have been saving my money for the past few months and before I leave I wanted to make a desktop to bring with me as my computer has passed its glory days. Too make it short and simple I'll have about ~1,000 dollars dedicated to a desktop before I leave in August. I have a 24' LCD Monitor, and to give you an idea what games I play/am looking to play; Fallout 3, Oblivion, Team Fortress 2, Witcher, World of Warcraft, possibly new Star Wars MMO. If possible would like to throw in some light multimedia features but here is what I'm looking to buy with this 1,000:

Basic components for desktop - CPU, GPU, etc
Windows 7 - cheapest version

Also I'd like this computer to last for about 4-5 years, so if possible I'd like it to be versatile and upgradable. Maybe upgrade a few parts every so often. I'm not someone who has to have top of the line graphics either. I am willing to overclock a little, I just want a computer that can perform. Can anyone give me suggestions where to look and what to buy.
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Emma Parkinson
 
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Post » Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:38 am

Hi, I'm going to be graduating HS and heading off to college in a few months. I have been saving my money for the past few months and before I leave I wanted to make a desktop to bring with me as my computer has passed its glory days. Too make it short and simple I'll have about ~1,000 dollars dedicated to a desktop before I leave in August. I have a 24' LCD Monitor, and to give you an idea what games I play/am looking to play; Fallout 3, Oblivion, Team Fortress 2, Witcher, World of Warcraft, possibly new Star Wars MMO. If possible would like to throw in some light multimedia features but here is what I'm looking to buy with this 1,000:

Basic components for desktop - CPU, GPU, etc
Windows 7 - cheapest version

Also I'd like this computer to last for about 4-5 years, so if possible I'd like it to be versatile and upgradable. Maybe upgrade a few parts every so often. I'm not someone who has to have top of the line graphics either. I am willing to overclock a little, I just want a computer that can perform. Can anyone give me suggestions where to look and what to buy.

4-5 years could be a problem, I don't think any technology will last that long, but here's some options. First thing is you should wait on buying Windows 7, because the cheapest option is a student discount which you can get from your college/university's book store (unless you go to a podunk community college like me).
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JD FROM HELL
 
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Post » Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:23 pm

4-5 years could be a problem, I don't think any technology will last that long, but here's some options. First thing is you should wait on buying Windows 7, because the cheapest option is a student discount which you can get from your college/university's book store (unless you go to a podunk community college like me).

4-5 years is entirely possible, of course you won't be playing games on super-high settings on hardware 4 years old, but it will be easily still functional.

Second recommendation on waiting before buying Windows 7. Many colleges also have MSDNAA membership, so if you are in the right classes you can get Windows 7 for completely free.
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Brιonα Renae
 
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