[e.Double]

Thanks Dogsbody. That list will really come in handy. Your the best.

I'd post a dxdiag, but my desktop is without internet right now. I do have a widescreen monitor, at 1366x768. My CPU is an AMD Athlon 7550.

I'd like to keep everything under 200 USD, cheaper if possible. :shrug:

PS. How do I be sure what wattage my PSU is at? I'm assuming I gotta open it up and look on the actual unit, right?

Best to open it up and read the label.

The most important things to look for are:
Make and model. This is important because good power supplies can deliver their full rated capacity, while crummy ones can become a fire hazard at half of that.
Total wattage.
The number of +12V rails and the current capacity of each. For example, you might see +12V1 17A, +12V2 15A.
The total wattage or current capacity at +12V. For example, you might see "+12V 324W max".
The number of 6-pin (sometimes 8-pin) PCI-Express auxiliary connectors. They look like this: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#pciexpress

[Jeffrey Lawson]

Thanks Dogsbody. That list will really come in handy. Your the best.

I'd post a dxdiag, but my desktop is without internet right now. I do have a widescreen monitor, at 1366x768. My CPU is an AMD Athlon 7550.

I'd like to keep everything under 200 USD, cheaper if possible. :shrug:

PS. How do I be sure what wattage my PSU is at? I'm assuming I gotta open it up and look on the actual unit, right?

Just get a new PSU if you can spend that much and up the video card to a Radeon 5750. Gotta buy soon before deals end though.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150448&cm_re=radeon_5750-_-14-150-448-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371030&cm_re=antec_power_supply-_-17-371-030-_-Product

[Theodore Walling]

Hey guys. As any of you who saw my post in the Lurkers Lair already know, UPS broke my computer when shipping it to me. If they pony up the money I insured it for, I'll be using it to build a new computer. I already have some of the parts I'll get in mind, so I'm not asking about that at the moment, but rather I wanted to know, if my hard drive still works, and I get a new hard drive and install Windows 7 on it, what would I have to do to transfer all the data from the old hard drive to the new one? I could also possibly install Windows 7 on the old hard drive, but I'd rather not. Could I somehow set up both hard drives to run at the same time and switch between them? I've heard the term Raid used when describing using multiple hard drives at once, what is Raid and could I use it for my situation?

Thanks for answering my questions!

[Katie Pollard]

Hey guys. As any of you who saw my post in the Lurkers Lair already know, UPS broke my computer when shipping it to me. If they pony up the money I insured it for, I'll be using it to build a new computer. I already have some of the parts I'll get in mind, so I'm not asking about that at the moment, but rather I wanted to know, if my hard drive still works, and I get a new hard drive and install Windows 7 on it, what would I have to do to transfer all the data from the old hard drive to the new one? I could also possibly install Windows 7 on the old hard drive, but I'd rather not. Could I somehow set up both hard drives to run at the same time and switch between them? I've heard the term Raid used when describing using multiple hard drives at once, what is Raid and could I use it for my situation?

Thanks for answering my questions!

You can add your old hard drive in as a second hard drive. It probably won't run the applications that are installed on it, though; you'll have to reinstall them. But you can use any data files you still have. (Bethesda games, because they are self-contained in their installed folders, are fairly easy to make work without reinstalling. Most other applications aren't.)

RAID is usually just an annoyance, requiring extra effort to install and maintain, offering just a fractional performance boost, and cutting the reliability of your system in half (if either disk drive fails, you're SOL). You have to reinitialize your disks, losing everything on them, to set up RAID initially.

There are two exceptions to the "if you think you might want RAID, you don't" rule:

Server systems that run RAID 1 or RAID 5 to offer high reliability (these systems can continue nonstop even if one disk fails) at a significant cost in performance. Home users don't have much need for these.

SSDs connected in RAID 0. These can be extremely fast, almost twice as fast as a single SSD.

[City Swagga]

So, I just sold my computer about 3 hours ago, cash in my hand. Now I'm going to work on building a newer one (with a PCI-E slot, yay!), what do you guys think of this rig? (no case yet, i'll pick that out later)

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=10959694

I still need a CPU heatsink, and fan, if anybody could recommend one.
Let me know if I'm missing anything else.

Last thing: I assume with this set up it would be able to play most games at high settings, with no frame rate issues?

[Ross Zombie]

So, I just sold my computer about 3 hours ago, cash in my hand. Now I'm going to work on building a newer one (with a PCI-E slot, yay!), what do you guys think of this rig? (no case yet, i'll pick that out later)

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=10959694

I still need a CPU heatsink, and fan, if anybody could recommend one.
Let me know if I'm missing anything else.

Last thing: I assume with this set up it would be able to play most games at high settings, with no frame rate issues?

Startech is ATNG. Avoid their power supplies. They have a bad reputation for good reason. This is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371030

The CPU is low-end. Athlon II's don't have L3 cache. If you can manage it, upgrade to a Phenom II: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103847 for $18 more.

If you get a a retail boxed (not OEM) CPU you don't need a separate heatsink/fan; if you get the one I linked above, just use the stock cooler. If you want a cooler for an OEM CPU, try this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186035.

For that matter, consider this motherboard instead: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductReview.aspx?Item=N82E16813157176 Same price (except for the rebate on the ECS) and easier to use. This board is one of the better choices for unlocking the locked cores on Athlon II and Phenom II CPUs.

[tannis]

[cut]

Thanks Dogsbody! I updated the list with the suggestions you made, and I think it's complete now

[Jonathan Braz]

Thanks Dogsbody! I updated the list with the suggestions you made, and I think it's complete now

Might consider a 5750 or 5770 instead of the 4850 (4850 is starting to look dated; 5xxx cards have DirectX 11), consider buying the memory as a kit of 2x2GB (usually you get a little price break this way), and be sure to let Tig ol Bitties get a look at your list before committing to it.

[phillip crookes]

Also, is there any mileage in going the way of the SSD teamed with a traditional HDD?

IMO SSDs are not really cost effective, while there is performance to be gained, the money could be better spent elsewhere. Unless of course money is no object.

For HDDs I use the 1TB western digital caviar black. good performance, and AFAIK, WD are top for reliability.
http://www.scan.co.uk/Search.aspx?q=western+digital+caviar+black

Though I agree they are damned expensive for little space, once you've gotten used to one, and go back to HDD, it's freaking murder!!! I had to RMA my Intel X25-M and used my old HDD while I waited. Longest week of my life. (Ok, maybe not but you get my point.)

If one can afford the price premium, I highly recommend SSDs if you like instant access on boot. I can click, and be surfing the web 1-2 seconds after seeing desktop. Took about 20-30 seconds on my HDD before everything was loaded and ready to go.

[Micah Judaeah]

Also, is there any mileage in going the way of the SSD teamed with a traditional HDD?

Cheers.

I love my OCZ Vertex, I have had it for about 7 months now and I must say I am so used to it. From POST to surfing the internet in 9 seconds, (clean install of course), now with Norton 360 running as well as some other start up programs I like to have open (virtual drive managers and the like) it takes about 24 seconds. Still much better then a conventional hard drive. Although mine is saying that its at 70% health.....which is unnerving, but still so worth it. I also put Fallout on a partition of the drive and it runs so much smoother, takes almost all of the microstutter out of the game. And loading a save takes less then 4 seconds.

[Sarah MacLeod]

So, I just sold my computer about 3 hours ago, cash in my hand. Now I'm going to work on building a newer one (with a PCI-E slot, yay!), what do you guys think of this rig? (no case yet, i'll pick that out later)

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=10959694

I still need a CPU heatsink, and fan, if anybody could recommend one.
Let me know if I'm missing anything else.

Last thing: I assume with this set up it would be able to play most games at high settings, with no frame rate issues?

Looks ok for most part except RAM. Make use of combo deals and you get more for roughly the same price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.408245

This CPU and GPU combo will cost you a bit more in the end, but worth looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.415909

[Tamika Jett]

RAID is evil. the only way i would consider even doing it is if it was complete write on both drives for back up purposes or something. if you do the split writing and one drive goes your screwed. also the speed advantage (which isnt that big) is negated by they new SSD or use a 10000 rpm drive and its noticably faster than the 7200 drives.

SSD arent actually that badly priceds. yeah you only get 160 GB on them but frankly you only need to put games on there and it takes quite a few games to take up that much space. unless of course your playing several MMOs at once. 10000 rpm drives are significantly faster and hold more data and are cheaper so that is a nice alternative. in the end though i want to stop using magnetic drive because i have never had a HD failure so i am long overdue. i just know its going to happen any second now.......right about now. maybe it will wait till i post this.

[Mrs shelly Sugarplum]

Looks ok for most part except RAM. Make use of combo deals and you get more for roughly the same price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.408245

This CPU and GPU combo will cost you a bit more in the end, but worth looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.415909

Yeah, the only problem about combo deals is it might end by the time i actually get this stuff lol. Thanks though, and I will try to find a different RAM package.

Something else though, does anybody know a good wireless router? I need it for gaming, on an Xbox 360, I just got a Slim 360, and want to put one in my room, probably about 20 feet away from the router, and it has to go through either 2 walls, or an L shaped hallway. annnd I know absolutely nothing about routers

Thanks again guys, you really are the best

[Kevin Jay]

Hey Dogsbody, just wanted to let you know that that Zonet card you recommended to someone else works awesome. Just got it in the mail, and my limited connectivity issues are completely resolved.


And Tig, that PSU looks good. IDK about that GPU, though, I might be pushing my budget a bit. :shrug:

I'm gonna see if I can work out some kinda payment plan with my mother, but then again I'm already in debt now due to my lovely car blowing the rear right tire ball bearings. Mmmmmmmm, smells like 500 bucks right there.

[Tanya]

Okay, I'm looking to build a gaming rig and I already have a build picked out.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106335
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129058
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131327
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153114
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128425
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215

From the laptop I got last year, there is a Windows Vista 64 bit re-installation CD. Can I use this to put Vista as my gaming OS or do I have to buy a new OS?

If I have to buy a new one, I'm going with this... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116758

Also, this build runs around $980 to $1000, so I'm wondering if I can get anything less expensive with the same amount of power.

[Mr.Broom30]

From the laptop I got last year, there is a Windows Vista 64 bit re-installation CD. Can I use this to put Vista as my gaming OS or do I have to buy a new OS?

If I have to buy a new one, I'm going with this... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116758

You cannot use the reinstallation for a few reasons:

1. It is not a PC made by the OEM that made the laptop

2. It is not the same hardware as the laptop

3. It is already installed on the laptop (Windows only allows one install per license)

1 and 2 make it straight-up impossible (since the install is locked to the mobo) and three makes it illegal to do.

So yeah, you need to buy an install disc.

[sarah simon-rogaume]

Okay, I'm looking to build a gaming rig and I already have a build picked out.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106335
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129058
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131327
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153114
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128425
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215



Also, this build runs around $980 to $1000, so I'm wondering if I can get anything less expensive with the same amount of power.

Configured you a slightly cheaper system that is actually more powerful ...gotta buy while the deals are good though.

CASE+PSU+GPU Combo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.422648 ....comes with free USB flash drive too!
CPU+MOBO Combo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.427780
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231303
DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204...Asus drives are excellent IMO, got two of them myself
HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152181

About $938. The Radeon 5850 is a significant upgrade from a Radeon 5770.

[Albert Wesker]

Does a laptop eventually die out after a few years of using it and you have to go and buy new ones?

[Myles]

Does a laptop eventually die out after a few years of using it and you have to go and buy new ones?

The battery probably will, but batteries can be replaced. Decently built laptops will get obsolete before they die, though.

[rebecca moody]

As fate would have it, 2nd week of summer and my computer starts having problems. I've been having problems with my computer locking up randomly, and I've just deduced that the problem is my 2nd hard drive has gone bad or something. Trying to access certain parts will cause my entire system to lock up (I can't even finish an error scan with HD tune). Really what I want to know is what do I do now? I have almost all my important data on that drive, so I need to be able to get it off somehow. Is there any way I can find out what data won't cause my system to lock up so I can transfer it to something else?

[Marilú]

As fate would have it, 2nd week of summer and my computer starts having problems. I've been having problems with my computer locking up randomly, and I've just deduced that the problem is my 2nd hard drive has gone bad or something. Trying to access certain parts will cause my entire system to lock up (I can't even finish an error scan with HD tune). Really what I want to know is what do I do now? I have almost all my important data on that drive, so I need to be able to get it off somehow. Is there any way I can find out what data won't cause my system to lock up so I can transfer it to something else?

I can't recall correctly, but I seem to be thinking you are a Mac user, so I can't say how much of this will be helpful

Firstly, though it doesn't sound like it it can't hurt - try a different sata (or olde pata if applicable) port on the mobo, as well as a different cable

Secondly it could be a problem with the file system, not the drive. Tools exist to fix NTFS (and I assume HFS), but the only one for NTFS I have used is chkdisk /r off the Windows install CD (no idea about mac file system tools)

thirdly Linux does not have feature-pairity support of NTFS or HFS. It may ignore any issues with the file system well enough for you to get the files. No idea how usable the HFS support is.

Lastly if all else fails you can turn to the experts.


This is why you should ALWAYS have at least one redundancy of all important data.

[saharen beauty]

I can't recall correctly, but I seem to be thinking you are a Mac user, so I can't say how much of this will be helpful

Firstly, though it doesn't sound like it it can't hurt - try a different sata (or olde pata if applicable) port on the mobo, as well as a different cable

Secondly it could be a problem with the file system, not the drive. Tools exist to fix NTFS (and I assume HFS), but the only one for NTFS I have used is chkdisk /r off the Windows install CD (no idea about mac file system tools)

thirdly Linux does not have feature-pairity support of NTFS or HFS. It may ignore any issues with the file system well enough for you to get the files. No idea how usable the HFS support is.

Lastly if all else fails you can turn to the experts.


This is why you should ALWAYS have at least one redundancy of all important data.

I have an iPod, that doesn't make me a Mac user :laugh: . I'll try using my Windows CD and see what happens, thanks.

[alicia hillier]

I have a problem where some of my games are slowing down randomly, in particular Modern Warfare 1 and 2. Performance will be completely fine, but maybe 10 minutes in, I will get lower FPS. I have tested this out with numerous drivers, and this problem persists with each. My mom changed some things in the Bios to see if it would help, but it has not. Should I just reset the bios?

I really want to get this problem fixed.


Sorry, this isn't really so much a tech question.

[Austin England]

Sounds like a memory issue to me. :shrug:

[Lucy]

Well, then again, I turned on my floor fan, and that seemed to pretty much solve the issue. I recently turned off my floor fan before to see if I could play without it, and my CPU temperatures were fine, but it could be my GPU temperature. Would it be advisable to manually turn the GPU fan speed faster to make it cooler? I remember there was a way to do that in the Nvidia Control Panel, if you downloaded some addon for it, but I don't remember what it was.