[Clea Jamerson]

Back again...


As anyone who frequents this thread will know, I've just bought a Sata III WD Caviar Black 640GB HDD. Since the change in drive I've noticed that the drive is constantly making a noise like it is reading/writing, a sort of juddery clicking noise and that the HDD activity light is pretty much constantly lit. Is this normal with this sort of drive? My old Seagate 180GB was pretty much silent.

I'm pretty sound sensitive and mildly computer component paranoid, so this is driving me insane!

[trisha punch]

Well I've installed ccleaner, run it and it seems to have ballsed up my laptop.

It barely starts up and when it does I'm getting a BSOD after about 3 minutes or so, different errors each time? It seems to be registry problem. It wants to run scans and diagnostics every time it starts and says there's a serious internal error. I've tried to use system restore and it hasn't worked. Wish I'd never used it now. Id rather have a computer that ran slow than one that doesn't run at all....

[Jeff Tingler]

Sorry to bump my own post, but im on a very limited time frame, can somebody atleast just link me to a quad core that would work http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157176? Also can somebody confirm that the computer would turn itself off if it had an incompatible processor. I know I sound really rude, atleast that's how I would see it, so I'm very sorry.

It would work with an AM3 quad core like http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103656 Putting in an incompatible cpu could seriously damage the motherboard or cpu, or both. Don't try to put in an incompatible cpu.

[Sheila Esmailka]

It would work with an AM3 quad core like http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103656 Putting in an incompatible cpu could seriously damage the motherboard or cpu, or both. Don't try to put in an incompatible cpu.

I just got informed that the CPU I got does work with it, according to reviews on Newegg, about the motherboard. So what could be the cause of my problem do you think? It's either the motherboard, power supply or CPU I think, because those 3 are the only ones I had plugged in. Once the power button is hit, the fan will spin about one circle, and the LED's turn on for a second, then everything power off, and I have to unplug the power cord, and plug it back in before it will do that again. I really need help here, and don't have money to pay like geek squad for them to diagnose it. ($70)

[Carys]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834127055 is the laptop I've been looking at. It seems good and is a reasonable price. I want something to play Elder Scrolls, Fallout 3 and some shooters on. Would that laptop be a worthwhile investment?

[Nikki Lawrence]

Back again...


As anyone who frequents this thread will know, I've just bought a Sata III WD Caviar Black 640GB HDD. Since the change in drive I've noticed that the drive is constantly making a noise like it is reading/writing, a sort of juddery clicking noise and that the HDD activity light is pretty much constantly lit. Is this normal with this sort of drive? My old Seagate 180GB was pretty much silent.

I'm pretty sound sensitive and mildly computer component paranoid, so this is driving me insane!

Caviar Blacks sacrifice everything for speed and reliability. They run hotter and noiser than Blues and Greens because of this. I have a Caviar Black, and I too hear it every now and then. It is normal

Well I've installed ccleaner, run it and it seems to have ballsed up my laptop.

It barely starts up and when it does I'm getting a BSOD after about 3 minutes or so, different errors each time? It seems to be registry problem. It wants to run scans and diagnostics every time it starts and says there's a serious internal error. I've tried to use system restore and it hasn't worked. Wish I'd never used it now. Id rather have a computer that ran slow than one that doesn't run at all....

CCleaner prompts you to back up the registry before it will clean it, so restoring that backup should fix it if CCleaner is the culprit.

[kat no x]

As soon as the computer started to shut down from overheating you should have done something about that rather than letting it happen again and again, chances are it is pretty fried now.

I have sent it in the first time it started. That was about two years ago. Gateway sent it back, and the overheating stopped. However, about half a year later, it started up again.

As for the beeping: at first it was five high pitched beeps, followed by around ten lower pitched beeps, then it would repeat.

I suppose I didn't expect anything more than a reprimand on this topic if Geeksquad or even Gateway couldn't help me.

[lauren cleaves]

Have diagnosed the beep code yet?

http://www.5starsupport.com/info/beep_codes.htm

[Rusty Billiot]

Caviar Blacks sacrifice everything for speed and reliability. They run hotter and noiser than Blues and Greens because of this. I have a Caviar Black, and I too hear it every now and then. It is normal


CCleaner prompts you to back up the registry before it will clean it, so restoring that backup should fix it if CCleaner is the culprit.

The registry was backed up but the computer won't even switch on to let me do it.

[Dawn Porter]

Hey folks, I have a download speed question.

When I'm downloading large files, I can see the rate drop roughly 0.1 kbs every couple of seconds. It seems like a pretty linear event.

I'm wondering if it's the site I'm downloading from, or something in this month old computer. Also, at times, our internet (wireless) CRAWLS.

Steps taken to diagnose and fix problems:

1) Called ISP, and cabled into the modem (taking router out), got a ping, and the ISP said that their modem was working correctly. However, the internet rate was still extrememly slow. They told me to call the computer company.

2) Called the computer company, went through their steps of trying to get rid of me, and reset the router, did a hardwire to the modem, etc....no dice. Told me to call the ISP or wipe the drive LOL

3) Went to local coffee shop, had lightning speed internet. What could be wrong?

4) Switched ethernet cable from odem to router (and thus the computer), and it worked great.

5) Well, it worked well for a while, back to intermitant internet.

6) Virus scan etc. all come up clean.

So do you folks have any thoughts as to what else to try?

Thanks, rumbly

[Donald Richards]

The registry was backed up but the computer won't even switch on to let me do it.

You said you could sometimes get 3 minutes of boot time, which is more than enough to restore a registry.

Hey folks, I have a download speed question.

When I'm downloading large files, I can see the rate drop roughly 0.1 kbs every couple of seconds. It seems like a pretty linear event.

I'm wondering if it's the site I'm downloading from, or something in this month old computer. Also, at times, our internet (wireless) CRAWLS.

Steps taken to diagnose and fix problems:

1) Called ISP, and cabled into the modem (taking router out), got a ping, and the ISP said that their modem was working correctly. However, the internet rate was still extrememly slow. They told me to call the computer company.

2) Called the computer company, went through their steps of trying to get rid of me, and reset the router, did a hardwire to the modem, etc....no dice. Told me to call the ISP or wipe the drive LOL

3) Went to local coffee shop, had lightning speed internet. What could be wrong?

4) Switched ethernet cable from odem to router (and thus the computer), and it worked great.

5) Well, it worked well for a while, back to intermitant internet.

6) Virus scan etc. all come up clean.

So do you folks have any thoughts as to what else to try?

Thanks, rumbly

If you are downloading from the same site when you are experiencing the decrease, then it could be on their side, but it seems more likely to be yours. A very likely culprit is your ISP throttling long downloads for "QoS" or crappy DSL/cable service causing packet loss.

for wireless you are probably getting interference. Change the channel of your wifi, and be using at least 802.11g, definitely not 802.11b. (requires the wireless node to support 802.11g, which pretty much all do nowadays) 802.11n if you can. Also: http://xkcd.com/654/

mostly sounds like a crappy ISP to me, though.

[cheryl wright]

If you are downloading from the same site when you are experiencing the decrease, then it could be on their side, but it seems more likely to be yours. A very likely culprit is your ISP throttling long downloads for "QoS" or crappy DSL/cable service causing packet loss.

for wireless you are probably getting interference. Change the channel of your wifi, and be using at least 802.11g, definitely not 802.11b. (requires the wireless node to support 802.11g, which pretty much all do nowadays) 802.11n if you can. Also: http://xkcd.com/654/

mostly sounds like a crappy ISP to me, though.

This has happened from different sites.

Am using .11g; the router is 4 years old, not sure if it's n capable, will look

I've picked up a weak correlation to the mocrowave and househol dcordless phone, but those typically aren't in service when this happens.

Will look into changing router channel; however, that wouldn't solve the issue for when I was hardwired to the modem (this is is what I find stumping).

Grazzi :foodndrink:

edit: to bolster the "it's not this new computer" point, this happens on our 5 year old Dell laptop as well...roughly in the past 2 months (even when one is on and the other computer is off).

[Hearts]

Hey everyone,

Is a 400W PSU enough to run this?

Pentium Dual Core E6500@2.93GHz
2GB DDR2 RAM
ATI 3650 AGP
160GB HDD

I only ask because my PC has started randomly losing video (or the HDD drive may not start spinning again, I can't really tell) whenever I restart the PC (not a cold boot). Is there a way to find out which of the two might be the culprit? For what it's worth, the PC runs fine with a lesser video card.

[cosmo valerga]

You said you could sometimes get 3 minutes of boot time, which is more than enough to restore a registry.

Unfortunately the three minutes of boot time always went to BSOD when I tried to launch anything. Now the computer won't even kick in - it switches on but doesn't go past a black screen.

[Jessica Colville]

I just got informed that the CPU I got does work with it, according to reviews on Newegg, about the motherboard. So what could be the cause of my problem do you think? It's either the motherboard, power supply or CPU I think, because those 3 are the only ones I had plugged in. Once the power button is hit, the fan will spin about one circle, and the LED's turn on for a second, then everything power off, and I have to unplug the power cord, and plug it back in before it will do that again. I really need help here, and don't have money to pay like geek squad for them to diagnose it. ($70)

The only three? No RAM?

Depending on what CPU you have, hopefully the BIOS that came in the motherboard is up to date to support the chip.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834127055 is the laptop I've been looking at. It seems good and is a reasonable price. I want something to play Elder Scrolls, Fallout 3 and some shooters on. Would that laptop be a worthwhile investment?

I find this to be more worth the money:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Asus+-+Laptop+/+Intel%26%23174%3B+Core%26%23153%3B+i7+Processor+/+17.3%22+Display+/+6GB+Memory+/+500GB+Hard+Drive+-+Black/9741729.p;jsessionid=2B06722C88D90C58F57945BC9EBB7F20.bbolsp-app02-48?id=1218165344675&skuId=9741729

Wait for a sale as it does happen often for it...$100-$200 off.

Decent alternatives:
http://www.amazon.com/Republic-Gamers-G51JX-X3-15-6-Inch-Gaming/dp/B00361G0ZO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1278922231&sr=8-2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834114796


Customizable:
http://www.xoticpc.com/gx640260us-order-p-2766.html?wconfigure=yes
http://www.xoticpc.com/sager-np8690-built-clevo-w860cu-custom-gaming-laptop-p-2659.html?wconfigure=yes
http://www.xoticpc.com/force-1656id4-built-msi1656id4-p-2822.html?wconfigure=yes

Hey everyone,

Is a 400W PSU enough to run this?

Pentium Dual Core E6500@2.93GHz
2GB DDR2 RAM
ATI 3650 AGP
160GB HDD

I only ask because my PC has started randomly losing video (or the HDD drive may not start spinning again, I can't really tell) whenever I restart the PC (not a cold boot). Is there a way to find out which of the two might be the culprit? For what it's worth, the PC runs fine with a lesser video card.

Can you give any more info on the PSU? Brand name? Amperage on the +12V spec?

Also, what was the lesser card you used?

This could be a PSU issue...

[CArla HOlbert]

The only three? No RAM?

Depending on what CPU you have, hopefully the BIOS that came in the motherboard is up to date to support the chip.

... I didn't think it was needed lol. Stupid me. But hey, that's alright, It's working now! I guess the motherboard's screws were in too tight, when I released them all, and the case was on it's side, it started fine. So I plugged everything back in, and found a good depth for the screws. Kind of annoying, I thought it was something big. My last motherboard must have been really durable, because I didn't even know that could affect anything. (Last motherboard screws were in tightly.)
A user issue building a computer lol.

[Angela]

Unfortunately the three minutes of boot time always went to BSOD when I tried to launch anything. Now the computer won't even kick in - it switches on but doesn't go past a black screen.

http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=624943. Those instructions are a bit old, as now Ubuntu comes with NTFS-3G preinstalled. For straight up GUI-oriented simplicity, it is easiest to do those instructions from Knoppix or Puppy Linux, which will put shortcuts to your hard drive partitions on the desktop. Simply find the one that is for Windows and follow the instructions accordingly.


If that doesn't work, you will have to back up your files (anything you have not backed up previously can likewise be backed up via a live CD) and do a fresh install, most likely.

It is odd, though, because in all my years of using CCleaner, not once have I had it royally screw up like it seems to have for you.

[Dewayne Quattlebaum]

I think you may be overestimating my technical knowledge sir.

Because the laptop likely had prior issues that were affecting the running of it (which is probably why it was running slow hence the cleanup) it’s unlikely to have solely been ccleaner that mucked it up. But truly I didn’t do anything else or use any other program because I just don’t know enough about it to try doing things myself.

There were probably corrupt files aplenty in the Windows directory and ccleaner has just been the straw that broke the camels back.

However my friend is having a look at it later and if need be, is going to clone the HD and reinstall XP.

[Rhysa Hughes]

I find this to be more worth the money:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Asus+-+Laptop+/+Intel%26%23174%3B+Core%26%23153%3B+i7+Processor+/+17.3%22+Display+/+6GB+Memory+/+500GB+Hard+Drive+-+Black/9741729.p;jsessionid=2B06722C88D90C58F57945BC9EBB7F20.bbolsp-app02-48?id=1218165344675&skuId=9741729

Wait for a sale as it does happen often for it...$100-$200 off.

Decent alternatives:
http://www.amazon.com/Republic-Gamers-G51JX-X3-15-6-Inch-Gaming/dp/B00361G0ZO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1278922231&sr=8-2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834114796


Customizable:
http://www.xoticpc.com/gx640260us-order-p-2766.html?wconfigure=yes
http://www.xoticpc.com/sager-np8690-built-clevo-w860cu-custom-gaming-laptop-p-2659.html?wconfigure=yes
http://www.xoticpc.com/force-1656id4-built-msi1656id4-p-2822.html?wconfigure=yes

Getting kinda expensive for my blood, :shrug: If I was gonna customize one, what do you think I should pick to make the computer good but keep costs down? And I thought the I7 processor was better than an I5, or am I just dumb?

[elliot mudd]

Can you give any more info on the PSU? Brand name? Amperage on the +12V spec?

Also, what was the lesser card you used?

This could be a PSU issue...

The PSU is a Corsair 400CX 400W with 30 amps on the +12v rail. The other card is a Nvidia 5200FX.

I tried two different 400CXs, one used and one new. They both result in the same issue.

[Marion Geneste]

Getting kinda expensive for my blood, :shrug: If I was gonna customize one, what do you think I should pick to make the computer good but keep costs down? And I thought the I7 processor was better than an I5, or am I just dumb?

The i7 is better than the i5, but in mobile world it also jacks the price up quite a bit going to an i7. The Core i5 chips are still no slouch though and if gaming is the intention, then you should go as high as you can on the video card. Mobility Radeon 5850/5870 or the GTX 360M is what you'd want with the price range you're looking at. Any of the ones I suggested to you will be powerful.

If you really want to keep costs down, here is another alternative but with a slower 5400rpm hard drive:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Asus+-+Laptop+with+Intel%26%23174%3B+Core%26%23153%3B2+Duo+Processor+-+Black/9556125.p?id=1218124208054&skuId=9556125

The PSU is a Corsair 400CX 400W with 30 amps on the +12v rail. The other card is a Nvidia 5200FX.

I tried two different 400CXs, one used and one new. They both result in the same issue.

That is plenty for your setup, so I don't see the PSU as the culprit. Looks to be more of a video card (Radeon 3650) problem....perhaps overheating. May want to get a can of compressed air and blow out any dust particles in the card's fan or even within your PC. If it doesn't help, something else amiss is going on with the card in my eyes.

[m Gardner]

That is plenty for your setup, so I don't see the PSU as the culprit. Looks to be more of a video card (Radeon 3650) problem....perhaps overheating. May want to get a can of compressed air and blow out any dust particles in the card's fan or even within your PC. If it doesn't help, something else amiss is going on with the card in my eyes.

I'm pretty sure the card is clean. I had the heatsink and fan off of it yesterday and applied some more thermal compound. I suppose it could be overheating, but it idles at around 40° C and hits 50° C when gaming.

If the hard drive was going bad, could it randomly fail to start back up after a restart, showing the same symptoms as the presumed video card problem?

EDIT: I don't know why I forgot to mention this, but whenever a restart fails, there is no POST beep. It's not as though the video is the only thing that fails. The CD drive light flashes a few times, the fans spin, and the power light on the front of the case is lit, but I can't say with certainty if anything else starts up.

[Alexis Acevedo]

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Asus+-+Laptop+/+Intel%26%23174%3B+Core%26%23153%3B+i7+Processor+/+17.3%22+Display+/+6GB+Memory+/+500GB+Hard+Drive+-+Black/9741729.p;jsessionid=2B06722C88D90C58F57945BC9EBB7F20.bbolsp-app02-48?id=1218165344675&skuId=9741729

I think I'm gonna go with this one.

[luke trodden]

I've been getting "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT" BSODs lately on WIndows 7 x64, Asus P5K-E Motherboard and 4GB of Kingston DDR2 800 RAM. Would anyone have an idea how i'll find out what's the issue?

[Pants]

I've been getting "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT" BSODs lately on WIndows 7 x64, Asus P5K-E Motherboard and 4GB of Kingston DDR2 800 RAM. Would anyone have an idea how i'll find out what's the issue?

memtest86, or use Windows 7 built in memory tester.

Build in memory tester instructions: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/715-memory-diagnostics-tool.html

Sounds like a bad memory module or a module has become partially unseated.