[Rachel Hall]

In a few weeks, when I get the money, I was wanting to upgrade my motherboard and cpu. CPU of choice will probably be the 1090T, but what motherboard should I get? It, of course, needs to at least be socket AM3, but besides that, I'm not sure. I'd like to try and keep it at 100USD or below, if possible.

With that budget, the best going chipset is AM3 870. This one is decent:
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M4A87TD-EVO-USB3-0-Motherboard/dp/B003ICWAUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1295231696&sr=8-1

Choosing Amazon due to free ship and no taxes for most. If newegg is your comfort, consider this board:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128443

[Ellie English]

Hey guys

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156063 is the case I currently have. I am planning on upgrading my computer (Close to a full new build) sometime soon in the future. Do you think this case is adequate or should I spend another $80-100 on a new case.



I plan on getting AMD Phenom II X4 @ 3.4 Ghz and Radeon HD 6870. I plan to overclock the CPU - what would you recommend for a heatsink?

edit: well would you recommend overclocking? I've never overclocked before, but I assume it'd give me a good performance boost.

[Mrs Pooh]

Hey guys

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156063 is the case I currently have. I am planning on upgrading my computer (Close to a full new build) sometime soon in the future. Do you think this case is adequate or should I spend another $80-100 on a new case.



I plan on getting AMD Phenom II X4 @ 3.4 Ghz and Radeon HD 6870. I plan to overclock the CPU - what would you recommend for a heatsink?

edit: well would you recommend overclocking? I've never overclocked before, but I assume it'd give me a good performance boost.

Nothing wrong with the case as long as it's got a decent make PSU in it.

I prefer the closed system water cooling units like the H50-H70 line. They are clean looking, and it's easier to get access to your parts vs a tower unit.

I like to OC. If you have patience, it's quite easy really. Just take your time and find that sweet spot. If you have questions, I'd be happy to help.

P.S.

I saw a 15+ FPS gain in Fallout NV going from 3.06GHz to 4.2GHz. Well worth the effort.

[sam westover]

Nothing wrong with the case as long as it's got a decent make PSU in it.

I prefer the closed system water cooling units like the H50-H70 line. They are clean looking, and it's easier to get access to your parts vs a tower unit.

I like to OC. If you have patience, it's quite easy really. Just take your time and find that sweet spot. If you have questions, I'd be happy to help.

P.S.

I saw a 15+ FPS gain in Fallout NV going from 3.06GHz to 4.2GHz. Well worth the effort.

Yeah I have a good PSU.

How much better would that type of water cooling unit be (H50 or H70) compared to a normal heatsink and fan? Is it worth spending almost double the money on cooling? I'm on a budget.

[Jeffrey Lawson]

Yeah I have a good PSU.

How much better would that type of water cooling unit be (H50 or H70) compared to a normal heatsink and fan? Is it worth spending almost double the money on cooling? I'm on a budget.

It matches or exceeds many high end tower coolers.

http://www.hexus.net/content/item.php?item=25823&page=4.

Consider them basically high end air cooling rather than say a true water cooling solution.

It may be overkill if you are planning to stick to default clocks but would be my suggestion if OCing.

For me, the overall tidiness in my case is worth the extra cost, but that is me. I'm folding@home with all 4 cores (8 logical) at 100% ATM on an I7 950 OC'd to 4.2GHz from 3.06GHz (Using the H50) and it's hitting 75-77C at times. (Ambient temp in my room is 21C)

P.S.

Hyperthreading adds heat. I'd be at 69-70C if I disabled it.

[Bigze Stacks]

I'm trying to set up a windows XP dual boot installation on a third hard drive on my computer, and I'm trying to follow http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/8057-dual-boot-installation-windows-7-xp.html. It says I need to slipstream SATA drivers into my window XP, but I can't follow their directions. The program won't allow me to choose an empty folder like they're telling me to, and besides that I don't actually know where to get SATA drivers. Do I get them from my motherboard's manufacturer? The hard drive manufacturer? Microsoft? I'm totally lost here.

[Anna Kyselova]

It says I need to slipstream SATA drivers into my window XP, but I can't follow their directions.

The program won't allow me to choose an empty folder like they're telling me to, and besides that I don't actually know where to get SATA drivers.

Do I get them from my motherboard's manufacturer? The hard drive manufacturer? Microsoft? I'm totally lost here.

I'd try and do it myself but I currently have no CD/DVD drive. (Ordered one though.) I have done it in the past though and as long as I followed the directions it worked.

Yes, they can be downloaded from the mobo maker. Give me the model number of the mobo and I'll link you to them if you like. (http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html can tell you the make if you do not know it.)

[james kite]

I'd try and do it myself but I currently have no CD/DVD drive. (Ordered one though.) I have done it in the past though and as long as I followed the directions it worked.

Yes, they can be downloaded from the mobo maker. Give me the model number of the mobo and I'll link you to them if you like. (http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html can tell you the make if you do not know it.)

I know it, http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=GRrtD7enpMkaVWV1 I don't know which one is the drivers I need though.

[N3T4]

I can not direct link you (site limitations) but go to the 'Others' section and download the 'ASUS Make AMD RAID/AHCI Driver Disk'.

Either use that, or use the files found here:

"wherever":\MakeDisk\RAID\Driver\WinXP (After extraction.)

Copy everything in the WinXP folder to the disk.

[Gavin boyce]

Ok techies, I need some help. Im looking into water cooling solutions for my new build (probably sandy bridge) and dont know if im going about this the right way. Things I need are a Reservoir/Pump, Waterblock, Radiator, and Tubes right? Newegg doesnt have much in the watercooling department so Im looking elsewhere, here are some parts I picked out. I dont have a lot of money so cheaper is better!

for a 1155(1156) socket.
http://www.xoxide.com/dc-750-kits.html
or separate parts which add up to be more...
http://www.xoxide.com/danger-den-mc-tdx-water-block-for-lga-1156-i3--i5--i7.html
http://www.xoxide.com/x2o-450-pumpres.html
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-hx-360.html
For a total of $145. Tubing is probably cheap and so is the coolant.

Is it better to buy in a kit or the separate parts? Does that kit look OK? Other kits on the site are like $200-300. This will be my first water cooled system
Thanks guys

[Marilú]

I'm looking into a new case, and the HAF-912 and the CM 690 II look like the top choices for me. I don't wanna spend more than $70 for a case unless it's really necessary, which is why I have a question about the 690 II. On Newegg there are 3 different versions on the 690 II, each increasing in increments of $10. However, The only difference I can see between the cases is whether it has a LED fan or not on it. Can someone enlighten me as to why there are 3 versions of the (seemingly) identical case?

Which would you guys pick? The 912 or the 690?


Three versions of the 690:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216

[priscillaaa]

I can not direct link you (site limitations) but go to the 'Others' section and download the 'ASUS Make AMD RAID/AHCI Driver Disk'.

Either use that, or use the files found here:

"wherever":\MakeDisk\RAID\Driver\WinXP (After extraction.)

Copy everything in the WinXP folder to the disk.

Thank you! Windows is installing on my third hard drive right now.

[Victor Oropeza]

I'm looking into a new case, and the HAF-912 and the CM 690 II look like the top choices for me. I don't wanna spend more than $70 for a case unless it's really necessary, which is why I have a question about the 690 II. On Newegg there are 3 different versions on the 690 II, each increasing in increments of $10. However, The only difference I can see between the cases is whether it has a LED fan or not on it. Can someone enlighten me as to why there are 3 versions of the (seemingly) identical case?

Which would you guys pick? The 912 or the 690?


Three versions of the 690:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119215
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216

Basic vs Advanced.

Both models are the same exact exterior, paint, frame, etc. The BASIC version has:
* ONLY TWO FANS; no top 140mm top exhaust, and front LED fan is 120mm not 140mm.
* just the top two 5.25" toolless mounts instead of four. The rest use screws.
* no dual 2.5" SSD adapter in the top 3.5" drawer.
* no 5.25" to 3.5" two-piece bracket nor the 3.5" front mesh grill.
* no multi-GPU support bracket / 80mm GPU fan mount.
* no top SATA HDD dock or little removeable (loseable) smokey plastic cover. An "Accessory Bin" is in its place, the exact same shape and size.

And one is just an older model.
I just recently bought the 692 advanced II. Its in the mail Been looking at cases for a looonnngg time and was about to pull the trigger on the Antec 902, but newegg doesnt carry it anymore.

Also, you can buy a clear side panel for the 690's on amazon or tiger direct i think. its 25$ though.

[Amy Smith]

Basic vs Advanced.

And one is just an older model.
I just recently bought the 692 advanced II. Its in the mail Been looking at cases for a looonnngg time and was about to pull the trigger on the Antec 902, but newegg doesnt carry it anymore.

Also, you can buy a clear side panel for the 690's on amazon or tiger direct i think. its 25$ though.

I'll grab the basic version then, since I intend to install aftermarket fans anyway since reports say that the stock fans are rubbish. Thanks!

[Emma Louise Adams]

Well, my dual boot installation was working just fine for a while, but now I can't get into Windows XP. Windows 7 works fine, but when I choose XP from the boot menu I just get a black screen.

[Dan Stevens]

Well, my dual boot installation was working just fine for a while, but now I can't get into Windows XP. Windows 7 works fine, but when I choose XP from the boot menu I just get a black screen.

You installed 7 first right?

If so, I've found it best to have XP installed first. Then it's as simple as installing 7 to a new partition/drive.

I never had to do anything special. On boot, I either picked 7 or "Older version of Windows".

If 7 is installed first, XP will not work properly without fuss.

[^~LIL B0NE5~^]

So it looks as if one of my green LED case lights is in the process of trying to burn out, or something. (http://www.xionusa.com/Product-case-XionONYX.asp--I have the black and green model, and the light that's on its way out is the top-most one on the case door. Basically everything from the Xion logo on up is dimmed/out entirely/flickering.) Last night it wasn't working at all, and since I booted the computer up this morning it's been flickering more or less constantly.

My questions: aside from issues of aesthetics, there's no harm in letting a case light burn out, is there? And assuming one were to try and replace the offending light--where would I get a replacement? And how would I go about replacing it?

[Wayland Neace]

You installed 7 first right?

If so, I've found it best to have XP installed first. Then it's as simple as installing 7 to a new partition/drive.

I never had to do anything special. On boot, I either picked 7 or "Older version of Windows".

If 7 is installed first, XP will not work properly without fuss.

Yeah, I've had 7 installed for close to a year now. I was able to run EasyBCD in my windows 7 install to repair/redo it, and it works. For now.

@Tyraa: I think the light that's going out is the one in the side fan. It won't hurt anything (as long as it's just the LED and not the entire fan) if it goes out. If you'd really like to replace it, you can just get a 140mm case fan with a built in led to replace it. I bought a blue one from newegg for $7.50, and it works like a charm. Not sure how common green ones are, however, as I was looking for a blue fan.

[Mario Alcantar]

@Tyraa: I think the light that's going out is the one in the side fan. It won't hurt anything (as long as it's just the LED and not the entire fan) if it goes out. If you'd really like to replace it, you can just get a 140mm case fan with a built in led to replace it. I bought a blue one from newegg for $7.50, and it works like a charm. Not sure how common green ones are, however, as I was looking for a blue fan.

The lights on the side fan all look fine (the side of the tower is transparent, obviously, and I can see them clearly). I should clarify--part of the front of the case is on a hinge; it swings open so you can access the power button, CD/DVD drive, etc. It's the lights on that that are flickering. I can swing it open as far as it can go and the flickering on those lights is still present. So I think it must be the LED(s) in that area that are going out. There's screws on the back of the door; when I get some free time next I'll have to open it up and take a look.

Thanks for the replacement suggestions, though. I see a couple of green LED light options on NewEgg; once I take a look at what I've got now (never opened up that part of the case), that should help me figure out which I need to get as a replacement.

[Eoh]

Ok techies, I need some help. Im looking into water cooling solutions for my new build (probably sandy bridge) and dont know if im going about this the right way. Things I need are a Reservoir/Pump, Waterblock, Radiator, and Tubes right? Newegg doesnt have much in the watercooling department so Im looking elsewhere, here are some parts I picked out. I dont have a lot of money so cheaper is better!

for a 1155(1156) socket.
http://www.xoxide.com/dc-750-kits.html
or separate parts which add up to be more...
http://www.xoxide.com/danger-den-mc-tdx-water-block-for-lga-1156-i3--i5--i7.html
http://www.xoxide.com/x2o-450-pumpres.html
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-hx-360.html
For a total of $145. Tubing is probably cheap and so is the coolant.

Is it better to buy in a kit or the separate parts? Does that kit look OK? Other kits on the site are like $200-300. This will be my first water cooled system
Thanks guys

Are you going to be heavily overclocking? If not, save yourself the $145.

[Kayleigh Mcneil]

Damn, I'm jealous. Trying to get around to finishing up my Sandy Bridge upgrade so I can play with my Radeon 6950 and flash it too. Congrats on the success.

As you should be. i5 2500k and a "6970" and everything is just fantastic.

[adam holden]

I really need some help. Really. It's this problem that has been shadowing me for four [censored] years and I have no idea what causes, what the hell is happening or ANYTHING. Asked for help maybe three or four times in Community Tech Threads over this period as well as on many other sites, but I'm still no closer to konwing exactly what is going on. I can't comprehend after so much reformatting and hardware changes, it still occurs.

Anyway, back when it first started occuring I had an AMD Athlon XP, Abit NF7-S, Radeon X800XT and Asus VW222U monitor. Basically, what happened was that whenever I booted the computer, changed resolution, or plugged in another device, ie. anything that triggered monitor detection, there's a chance I'd lose the video on my primary display. It would randomly drop the monitor. I'd then have to unplug/replug the monitor back in continuously until it got picked up again. Eventually, I upgraded to an E8500, Gigabyte EP45-UD3P and GTX 260 with a new PSU. STILL GETTING THE SAME ISSUE. Then, after recently upgrading to the 260.xx Nvidia drivers the issue got worse - whenever I plug in ANY DEVICE, even hotswapping HDDs or plugging in a USB device, the issue occurs again. Monitor is dropped. So just now I reformatted and am trying a new monitor - a Dell U2311H. Guess what? It still happens.

I DON'T EVEN.

Just wanting the monitor to be working when I turn on the PC, when I change resolution and when I plug in another monitor or a USB device. Is this really too much to ask?

[Meghan Terry]

I really need some help. Really. It's this problem that has been shadowing me for four [censored] years and I have no idea what causes, what the hell is happening or ANYTHING. Asked for help maybe three or four times in Community Tech Threads over this period as well as on many other sites, but I'm still no closer to konwing exactly what is going on. I can't comprehend after so much reformatting and hardware changes, it still occurs.

Anyway, back when it first started occuring I had an AMD Athlon XP, Abit NF7-S, Radeon X800XT and Asus VW222U monitor. Basically, what happened was that whenever I booted the computer, changed resolution, or plugged in another device, ie. anything that triggered monitor detection, there's a chance I'd lose the video on my primary display. It would randomly drop the monitor. I'd then have to unplug/replug the monitor back in continuously until it got picked up again. Eventually, I upgraded to an E8500, Gigabyte EP45-UD3P and GTX 260 with a new PSU. STILL GETTING THE SAME ISSUE. Then, after recently upgrading to the 260.xx Nvidia drivers the issue got worse - whenever I plug in ANY DEVICE, even hotswapping HDDs or plugging in a USB device, the issue occurs again. Monitor is dropped. So just now I reformatted and am trying a new monitor - a Dell U2311H. Guess what? It still happens.

I DON'T EVEN.

Just wanting the monitor to be working when I turn on the PC, when I change resolution and when I plug in another monitor or a USB device. Is this really too much to ask?

The only part that has not been changed is the motherboard and the problem keeps occurring. So, obviously the motherboard is the problem. Try updating the BIOS to the latest version.

[Laura Samson]

The only part that has not been changed is the motherboard and the problem keeps occurring. So, obviously the motherboard is the problem. Try updating the BIOS to the latest version.

The motherboard has changed and I stated as such (Abit NF7-S to Gigabyte EP45-UD3P, besides it's very much impossible to throw a Core2Duo E8500 into a Socket A mobo).

[LittleMiss]

The motherboard has changed and I stated as such (Abit NF7-S to Gigabyte EP45-UD3P, besides it's very much impossible to throw a Core2Duo E8500 into a Socket A mobo).

Sorry, I misread.

It makes little sense but the only other thing that could be causing the problem is the PC case. I have no idea how, though.