[Robert DeLarosa]

Beep codes vary between BIOS manufacturer and motherboard manufacturer. On an AMI BIOS (it should say on the POST screen what kind of BIOS you have: usually AMI, Phoenix, or Award), 9 beeps usually means the BIOS ROM didn't read correctly. The other kinds of BIOS don't have a straight 9-beep code documented.

If it only does this occasionally, and is always stable while it's running, I wouldn't worry about it.

If it gets worse, so that it's doing this frequently, I would try, in order:

* Replacing the CMOS battery (it's the coin-shaped battery on the motherboard).

* Reflashing the BIOS, with the latest BIOS from the computer maker or the motherboard maker. This will rewrite the ROM and set all the bits to solid ones and zeros (or so we hope).

* Changing out the power supply, using a known good one. (Power problems at startup can cause a lot of consequential errors.)

If nothing else works, and the computer is not under warranty, you may have to replace the motherboard.

Lovely. It is stable when running though it might happen once or twice every month or so.

[Heather beauchamp]

If you do it through your OS' system settings where you change the resolution of your screen there will be an option that should say something like 'make this monitor my main desktop' and that should do it.

Doh! I thought I had already tried that... Ah well, it works perfectly now, thank you!

[Stephanie Nieves]

I'm looking to buy a case that has a power supply with it. The one I'm looking at says "500W Java PSU." Is Java just a brand? I don't know what I already have in there. Whatever come with the PC when we got it. Would it be best to get something like I already have? The PC I have is an http://www.pcauthority.com.au/Review/20588,acer-aspire-t620.aspx, which is a few years old, now.
There's not much inside that's original, I've upgraded a few things, like new case fan, monitor, RAM, graphics card and while it was under warranty the motherboard needed replacing due to a manufacturer fault. Well, I assume so the IT rep wouldn't elaborate (but that may've most likely been because of my gender by the way he treated me :rolleyes:), and there seemed to be an urgency from Acer to get it replaced as soon as possible.

Anyway, I'm mainly just wondering if I need a particular power supply or it doesn't really matter, it's just a name? My current one I'm pretty sure is 300W, and there's a noise in there which I've narrowed down to coming from within it, so thought it better if I upgrade now in case it packs it in. Plus I'm also wanting to upgrade my video card, too and the one I'm wanting needs at least a 450W power supply.

I could just get a whole new PC but I can't really afford to at the moment so upgrading is the next best thing.

[Elizabeth Lysons]

I'm looking to buy a case that has a power supply with it. The one I'm looking at says "500W Java PSU." Is Java just a brand? I don't know what I already have in there. Whatever come with the PC when we got it. Would it be best to get something like I already have? The PC I have is an http://www.pcauthority.com.au/Review/20588,acer-aspire-t620.aspx, which is a few years old, now.
There's not much inside that's original, I've upgraded a few things, like new case fan, monitor, RAM, graphics card and while it was under warranty the motherboard needed replacing due to a manufacturer fault. Well, I assume so the IT rep wouldn't elaborate (but that may've most likely been because of my gender by the way he treated me :rolleyes:), and there seemed to be an urgency from Acer to get it replaced as soon as possible.

Anyway, I'm mainly just wondering if I need a particular power supply or it doesn't really matter, it's just a name? My current one I'm pretty sure is 300W, and there's a noise in there which I've narrowed down to coming from within it, so thought it better if I upgrade now in case it packs it in. Plus I'm also wanting to upgrade my video card, too and the one I'm wanting needs at least a 450W power supply.

I could just get a whole new PC but I can't really afford to at the moment so upgrading is the next best thing.

There aren't too many deals where a good case is sold with a good power supply. Usually you're better off getting them separately. (Mounting the power supply requires tightening four screws; any primate with opposable thumbs can do it.)

"Java" is just a model of power supply. Apevia is the company that sells them. They are bottom-of-the-barrel quality and should be avoided. I certainly wouldn't use a 500W "Java" in a 450W application; it's liable to catch fire at about 300W.

If you want to get the case and power supply together as one item, try:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133098
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129045

Leave all the Apevia, Sunbeam, Logisys, Rosewill, Raidmax, and HEC crap alone.

[Bellismydesi]

I'm looking to buy a case that has a power supply with it. The one I'm looking at says "500W Java PSU." Is Java just a brand? I don't know what I already have in there. Whatever come with the PC when we got it. Would it be best to get something like I already have? The PC I have is an http://www.pcauthority.com.au/Review/20588,acer-aspire-t620.aspx, which is a few years old, now.
There's not much inside that's original, I've upgraded a few things, like new case fan, monitor, RAM, graphics card and while it was under warranty the motherboard needed replacing due to a manufacturer fault. Well, I assume so the IT rep wouldn't elaborate (but that may've most likely been because of my gender by the way he treated me :rolleyes:), and there seemed to be an urgency from Acer to get it replaced as soon as possible.

Anyway, I'm mainly just wondering if I need a particular power supply or it doesn't really matter, it's just a name? My current one I'm pretty sure is 300W, and there's a noise in there which I've narrowed down to coming from within it, so thought it better if I upgrade now in case it packs it in. Plus I'm also wanting to upgrade my video card, too and the one I'm wanting needs at least a 450W power supply.

I could just get a whole new PC but I can't really afford to at the moment so upgrading is the next best thing.

There are many combo deals out there as well. Examples:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.345217
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.345218
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.345155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.345227
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.345230

[Chavala]

Thanks! Luckily I posted before buying that case and power supply.

I'm sort of limited where I can buy PC stuff. Newegg has a phobia with anyone outside the US and most of my local places are either too expensive or treat me like a moron because I'm female.

eBay is usually the place I look for things.

Thanks for the suggestions as well as the info about that power supply. I shall keep looking

[Dalton Greynolds]

Thanks! Luckily I posted before buying that case and power supply.

I'm sort of limited where I can buy PC stuff. Newegg has a phobia with anyone outside the US and most of my local places are either too expensive or treat me like a moron because I'm female.

eBay is usually the place I look for things.

Thanks for the suggestions as well as the info about that power supply. I shall keep looking

Tig knows the Australian vendors and should be able to point you in a useful direction. Anyway, were you planning to build an entire new computer, or re-host the Acer motherboard in a new case, or did you just need more power to handle a newer graphics card? The power supply in the T620 is standard and can be replaced with a newer and stronger power supply, without the need to replace the case.

[Emily Rose]

Thanks! Luckily I posted before buying that case and power supply.

I'm sort of limited where I can buy PC stuff. Newegg has a phobia with anyone outside the US and most of my local places are either too expensive or treat me like a moron because I'm female.

eBay is usually the place I look for things.

Thanks for the suggestions as well as the info about that power supply. I shall keep looking

Tasmania? I know a few sites that would ship to you. How much are you looking to spend though in your currency?

[Miss Hayley]

Tig knows the Australian vendors and should be able to point you in a useful direction. Anyway, were you planning to build an entire new computer, or re-host the Acer motherboard in a new case, or did you just need more power to handle a newer graphics card? The power supply in the T620 is standard and can be replaced with a newer and stronger power supply, without the need to replace the case.

Basically pull out what's inside my case and put it all in a new airier one. It seems like there isn't enough ventilation. I don't have a fan svcking air in, just a single one out the back. I recently got a new fan (1700rpm) as my old one was old and quite dirty, despite my best attempts at cleaning it. The front of the case, where it says Acer Aspire, has vent holes behind that panel, but it doesn't look as if much air would be being svcked in through those small vents at the side and meshed holes at the bottom (where there are extra USB ports and headphone jacks).
Edit: http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8269/casefront.jpg.
The cases I've been looking at have at least four fans in them. Side, top, back and front. Not sold separately, which I thought was good.

The graphics card I would like is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290409401477&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT. My current card is an ATI Radeon X1600XT 256MB. Nothing wrong with it but I wanted something better for Fallout 4. Although I'm hoping dual core won't be part of the minimum requirements. At this stage I can't get, or build, a new PC. I did buy a video card cooling fan that definitely fits my card, but I guess I'm afraid I'll screw up the installation and I'd hate to destroy my card by accident.

Tasmania? I know a few sites that would ship to you. How much are you looking to spend though in your currency?

Yes. Tasmania is also known as The Apple Isle
In AUD the maximum would be about $250-$300, total. If possible. The case/power supply combo I asked about earlier was $190; The guys I got my case fan from had the same thing for $220 and I thought that was dear. I bought my video card for that much :mellow:

Thanks for your help

[Undisclosed Desires]

Hey guys, anyone know a better (and free) defrag program than the one that comes with xp? It doesn't want to seem to do its job correctly.

[Soraya Davy]

Hey guys, anyone know a better (and free) defrag program than the one that comes with xp? It doesn't want to seem to do its job correctly.

http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/ have a pretty decent one IMO otherwise there is also http://www.mydefrag.com/ but be warned, it is very through and will take a long time to complete.

[(G-yen)]

Curious if anyone knows much about Sony's BRAVIA Engine used in their TVs? I'm looking at two TVs, one has BE2 and the other BE3.

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666081157

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666077650

I wouldn't mind having 1080p so that I could use it as a PC monitor, but it's not really a requirement. I'm more concerned with picture quality, so if BE3 used in the EX308 will provide a better picture than BE2 in the EX400, then I'll go with the EX308.

[SEXY QUEEN]

Yes. Tasmania is also known as The Apple Isle
In AUD the maximum would be about $250-$300, total. If possible. The case/power supply combo I asked about earlier was $190; The guys I got my case fan from had the same thing for $220 and I thought that was dear. I bought my video card for that much :mellow:

Thanks for your help

A few options:

http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Antec&pid=1317
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Antec&pid=1318



This site is native to your country I believe, but the site seems to be broken in some areas right now for me. Many are suggesting them though. Check out the Antec case+psu options there as well:
http://www.entacom.com.au/

Or you can buy the case separate from either site..something like the:
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Antec&pid=928
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Antec&pid=3217.
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Coolermaster&pid=3549
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Coolermaster&pid=2987

Then one of these quality PSUs:
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Power%20Supply&pd1=1&pd2=500W-580W&pid=661
http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Power%20Supply&pd1=1&pd2=500W-580W&pid=347

Curious if anyone knows much about Sony's BRAVIA Engine used in their TVs? I'm looking at two TVs, one has BE2 and the other BE3.

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666081157

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666077650

I wouldn't mind having 1080p so that I could use it as a PC monitor, but it's not really a requirement. I'm more concerned with picture quality, so if BE3 used in the EX308 will provide a better picture than BE2 in the EX400, then I'll go with the EX308.

Because the EX308 is still relatively new, there isn't a whole lot of reviews comparing the two just yet. This might show some insight, but is more of a thread to follow for the next few weeks:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1231514

[Lyndsey Bird]

A few options:

http://macotechnology.com.au/pd9.asp?cat=Case&pd1=1&pd2=Antec&pid=1317

Ooh I like that one. Doesn't match the rest of my PC but I don't care :hehe:

My game dealer used to always send me to www.cpl.com.au (they're in Victoria) but their catalogue consists of a downloadable jpeg image or pdf document, all with almost no pictures. Really only for those who know what they need already. I did get my video card from them but saw it somewhere else first so knew what it looked like.

This site is native to your country I believe, but the site seems to be broken in some areas right now for me. Many are suggesting them though. Check out the Antec case+psu options there as well:
http://www.entacom.com.au/

I haven't heard of them, either. Trying to look through their cases and RAM categories and maybe they just don't have anything right now. Nothing is coming up for me. Oh well, I'll look properly later. Nice website, though.

Thank you for finding those for me, that's really helpful. I would like to fill up my RAM slots as well, as I currently have 2x512 and 2x1GB and would prefer all 1GB sticks. I've a saved search on eBay but people are only selling the smaller ones. Looks as if Maco Technology has my RAM, too, so that's handy

Thanks!

[Keeley Stevens]

Hello again everyone! I think I posted this question a few months ago but forgot to look at any answers. Here it goes...

I have been experiencing a weird problem with my computer for about a year. If I go to plug something into any USB port after turning the computer on for the first time in any given day, the computer BSODs and crashes. I hard restart it, it comes back to normal, and the USB ports work fine. If I turn off the computer and try again, it crashes again, and lather rinse repeat. Anyone know just what the heck is going on and how I can possibly fix this?

[Britta Gronkowski]

I need help adding an old harddrive to my computer now. I don't know where to put it/what to attach and were the IDE cables should go to the motherboard. Anyone have some sort of good tutorial they've used or know will be good?

[Darren Chandler]

What type of drive is it?
What kind of motherboard do you have?
How many devices are currently plugged into your motherboard (sata & ide)?

[Alisha Clarke]

What type of drive is it?
What kind of motherboard do you have?
How many devices are currently plugged into your motherboard (sata & ide)?

I will find the first out tomorrow, but it looks like a standard hard drive.
Gigabyte MA770t-UD3P motherboard.
One sngle 1TB hard drive.

[lilmissparty]

I will find the first out tomorrow, but it looks like a standard hard drive.
Gigabyte MA770t-UD3P motherboard.
One sngle 1TB hard drive.

The terabyte HDD is a SATA? Is the new drive also a SATA or is it IDE?

Also, do you have a DVD drive?


Assuming that the new drive is SATA, all you'll need to do is mount it within your case, plug a SATA cable between your motherboard's SATA connectors (right next to where your current HDD is plugged in (assuming it is SATA) and the drive itself. Then plug one of the power connectors from your PSU to the drive.

Upon boot check BIOS to see if the drive is recognized by the BIOS, then if all is kosher boot into your OS and format the drive.

[jason worrell]

I will find the first out tomorrow, but it looks like a standard hard drive.
Gigabyte MA770t-UD3P motherboard.
One sngle 1TB hard drive.

Almost all 1TB drives are SATA, but you can look at the connectors on the drive to make sure.

IDE (PATA) will have a large box-shaped 40-pin connector, about 2 in. (5 cm) wide.

SATA will have two much smaller connectors, one 15-pin (power) and one 7-pin (data).

http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/mainboards/gigabyte-ma770t-ud3p/board-1.jpg. It has a single IDE connector (the green box-shaped one at lower left) and six SATA connectors (the yellow lozenge-shaped ones just above and to the left of the IDE connector).

The mounting instructions depend to an extent on your case. If your case has a "tool-free" mounting design, you slide the drive into place and close the latch. If your case has screw mounts, you slide the drive into place until the threaded holes on the drive line up with the matching holes in the drive cage. Then you fasten it in with the (hopefully provided) screws. There will be screw holes on both sides of the drive; you need to remove both side panels of the case to get to them.

Connecting the cables depends on whether you have a SATA or IDE (PATA) drive. For SATA, it's easy: plug a matching connector from the power supply into the drive's power connector, and run a data cable from the next SATA connector (the first one is numbered SATA_0, the second is SATA_1, etc., as printed on the motherboard) to the drive's data connector.

If you have a PATA (IDE) drive, it depends on whether you already have a PATA drive (usually a DVD or CD drive) connected. The remaining instructions are for the (unlikely) case where you got a new PATA drive; if yours is SATA, ignore this.

If you don't, then review the jumper setting on your drive. These are usually on the rear of the drive, by the power and IDE connectors. There are three (sometimes more) positions; the important ones are labeled Master, Slave, and CS (Cable Select). Set the jumper to Master. Plug one end of your IDE cable into the motherboard (if your IDE cable is color-coded, it will be the blue connector) and the other end into the drive.

If you do have a drive already connected, review the jumper settings on both the new drive and the one that's already connected. You must set them to either:

* One set to Master (usually the one that's there already), one set to Slave (usually the new one).
* Both set to CS (Cable Select).

Once you have the PATA drives jumpered, plug the remaining connector of the IDE cable into the drive.

Connect one of the 4-pin connectors from the power supply to the PATA drive.

Before putting the covers back on, boot and press DEL (or F2, or whatever's required on your computer) to enter the BIOS. Make sure the BIOS "sees" all your drives. If it doesn't, go back and make sure everything is plugged in: data and power connectors on both drives. If you have a PATA drive, make sure the jumpers are set correctly (Master, for a single drive; either one Master and one Slave, or both Cable Select for two drives). In the BIOS, make sure that you haven't disabled any of the SATA or IDE ports.

Once all your drives are recognized, boot into Windows, and go to your Control Panel->Administrative Tools->Computer Management. Open Disk Management, find the new drive, format it, and give it a drive letter. You're good to go.

[I’m my own]

Ooh I like that one. Doesn't match the rest of my PC but I don't care :hehe:

My game dealer used to always send me to www.cpl.com.au (they're in Victoria) but their catalogue consists of a downloadable jpeg image or pdf document, all with almost no pictures. Really only for those who know what they need already. I did get my video card from them but saw it somewhere else first so knew what it looked like.


I haven't heard of them, either. Trying to look through their cases and RAM categories and maybe they just don't have anything right now. Nothing is coming up for me. Oh well, I'll look properly later. Nice website, though.

Thank you for finding those for me, that's really helpful. I would like to fill up my RAM slots as well, as I currently have 2x512 and 2x1GB and would prefer all 1GB sticks. I've a saved search on eBay but people are only selling the smaller ones. Looks as if Maco Technology has my RAM, too, so that's handy

Thanks!

The entacom site seems to be displaying now. Might want to take a look. Pricing and delivery times are pretty decent. They don't stock too much though.

[Joe Alvarado]

Almost all 1TB drives are SATA, but you can look at the connectors on the drive to make sure.

IDE (PATA) will have a large box-shaped 40-pin connector, about 2 in. (5 cm) wide.

SATA will have two much smaller connectors, one 15-pin (power) and one 7-pin (data).

http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/mainboards/gigabyte-ma770t-ud3p/board-1.jpg. It has a single IDE connector (the green box-shaped one at lower left) and six SATA connectors (the yellow lozenge-shaped ones just above and to the left of the IDE connector).

The mounting instructions depend to an extent on your case. If your case has a "tool-free" mounting design, you slide the drive into place and close the latch. If your case has screw mounts, you slide the drive into place until the threaded holes on the drive line up with the matching holes in the drive cage. Then you fasten it in with the (hopefully provided) screws. There will be screw holes on both sides of the drive; you need to remove both side panels of the case to get to them.

Connecting the cables depends on whether you have a SATA or IDE (PATA) drive. For SATA, it's easy: plug a matching connector from the power supply into the drive's power connector, and run a data cable from the next SATA connector (the first one is numbered SATA_0, the second is SATA_1, etc., as printed on the motherboard) to the drive's data connector.

If you have a PATA (IDE) drive, it depends on whether you already have a PATA drive (usually a DVD or CD drive) connected. The remaining instructions are for the (unlikely) case where you got a new PATA drive; if yours is SATA, ignore this.

If you don't, then review the jumper setting on your drive. These are usually on the rear of the drive, by the power and IDE connectors. There are three (sometimes more) positions; the important ones are labeled Master, Slave, and CS (Cable Select). Set the jumper to Master. Plug one end of your IDE cable into the motherboard (if your IDE cable is color-coded, it will be the blue connector) and the other end into the drive.

If you do have a drive already connected, review the jumper settings on both the new drive and the one that's already connected. You must set them to either:

* One set to Master (usually the one that's there already), one set to Slave (usually the new one).
* Both set to CS (Cable Select).

Once you have the PATA drives jumpered, plug the remaining connector of the IDE cable into the drive.

Connect one of the 4-pin connectors from the power supply to the PATA drive.

Before putting the covers back on, boot and press DEL (or F2, or whatever's required on your computer) to enter the BIOS. Make sure the BIOS "sees" all your drives. If it doesn't, go back and make sure everything is plugged in: data and power connectors on both drives. If you have a PATA drive, make sure the jumpers are set correctly (Master, for a single drive; either one Master and one Slave, or both Cable Select for two drives). In the BIOS, make sure that you haven't disabled any of the SATA or IDE ports.

Once all your drives are recognized, boot into Windows, and go to your Control Panel->Administrative Tools->Computer Management. Open Disk Management, find the new drive, format it, and give it a drive letter. You're good to go.

Wow, thanks a lot. It worked perfectly! I'm just copying everything to my computer now. My terrabyte was a SATA connection, so that made it A LOT easier.

I want to install some form of Linux so I can learn around it a little better. I used to have Kubuntu installed (kind of, I had to take it off and install XP the next day ) and I want to install it totally to this HDD; what steps should I take? I know I'm going to need to format this other HDD (it's a small one with only 80 gig, but that should be enough to screwed around with for Linux, correct?) to FAT32, right? From there on, I have no idea what to do. I would appreciate some help!

[FLYBOYLEAK]

EDIT:Never mind,found what I needed-sorry for being an idiot.

[Sami Blackburn]

Can anyone tell me what a good partition management program is? I have two partitions: the C drive where Windows is installed, and where I install everything, and my D drive where all my large files go that I keep as backup. I want to move a few GB from the D drive to the C drive, but Windows 7 won't let me expand the OS partition....

[Jack Moves]

A copy of my email to Overclockers:

Following a phone call to one of your customer service assistants, I have been advised to refer my complaint to management. In December of last year, I placed an order (########) for a number of components, including a Gigabyte GTX 260 GPU, which were all listed as in stock, and paid for next-day delivery. After a week had passed with no delivery, I phoned customer service and was told that the graphics card was definitely in stock, but that my RAM and optical drive were out of stock, and delivery had been delayed due to bad weather. However, when these components came available on the website but my order was not shipped I phoned customer service again. This time I was told that all components were in stock apart from the Gigabyte GTX 260, which had not been in stock for some time and would not be restocked. At this point, at expense to myself and maintaining faith in Overclockers, I changed my order to include a motherboard, and switched the GPU to a Gigabyte GTX 275, which was available for pre-order with a delivery date of the Friday of that week. When this date came and went with no dispatch, I phoned customer service again. This time I was advised that the card had not arrived in the delivery and there was no known date for the next delivery. Again, at expense to myself, I changed my GPU order to the XFX GTX 275, which was in stock. Shortly afterwards the order was dispatched, but when I assembled the components there was no output from the graphics card. I returned the card to Overclockers for RMA, where it tested faulty and, on February 19th, an order was placed for a replacement. By this point however, the XFX GTX 275 was on pre-order. Since then, a month has passed with no indication of the card coming in stock. As it has been almost three months since I initially placed my order, and since every problem with my order has resulted in me giving more money in good faith to Overclockers in an attempt to resolve it, I would be grateful if my faulty GTX 275 card could be replaced, at no additional cost to myself, with the XFX GeForce GTX 285 card, of which there are currently 10+ in stock.

Regards,

###### #####

Either they send it, or I drive down there and shag each and every one of their wives <_<